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Thread: Guidance for buying a D1 '98 or '95?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    At the risk of sounding a bit negative, it sounds like a huge rip off. That price for all the issues you have listed is steep.

    HAHA. No. If you're running even remotely standard vehicle, this is not true. If you modify it enough, yes something will eventually break. I run slightly large diameter tyres, fully loaded vehicle almost every time we go 4WD'ing in our '95 Disco without issue. Factory suspension too I might add. I have once been told the same thing by a mechanic when I first bought it. He insisted I carry spare axles if I was going off-road. Ha! It was obvious he was anti-Land Rover and nearly 5 years later I'm glad I ignored him in every way.

    To qualify that properly, what size tyres are you planning on running? What modifications are you planning?
    Tyres:
    I certainly what to run a larger than std tyre but not that larger that Hwy/City driving suffers..... Was thinking to start off with what seems fairly common tyre size - 245/75/16. Not sure how large u can go b4 u loose too much low down torque and performance on & off the road??

    Mods:
    Just the usual - Snorkel / Winch Bar / Winch / Roofrack / Rearbar (at some point) / Dual Batteries

    The sort of driving I'll be doing:
    The usual to/from work - Weekend exploring through the Bush with the chance of doing some more difficult tracks/climbs if req'd to get to where I want to get to ....

    Rob

  2. #12
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    That small pipe (Fuel return) on the #4 injector should be blank, check when engine running, should be dry, looks like plenty of oil coming out of rocker cover. A test to try, with engine idling loosen and remove oil filler cap on rocker cover, sit cap back in hole without screwing it down, it should bobble around a bit, but if it gets blown out of hole you have excessive blow by, look elsewhere if this is the case.
    Land Rovers are a great vehicle, but if you have NO mechanical aptitude I wouldn't recommend a LR, unless you have deep pockets, there are so many dickhead mechanics around, like the one that you mentioned. It is advisable if you buy a LR to take it ONLY to a LR expert in your area, others from Brisbane can advise you there. It is a shame that there are so many ignorant, incompetent mechanics out there who will rip you off, that is why I won't recommend a LR to a friend with no mechanical expertise. As far as model goes I would opt for a 94 model or whatever models don't have ABS and all the other electrical gizmo's and bull****, stick with simple and reliable, Good Luck, Regards Frank.
    Thanks for that Frank.... I did actually do this test and it was OK, but the engine was NOT at running Temp though & I assume it should be?

    I'll keep looking for D1 but was curious as to the difference between early years and the last of the D1s. From what I've sort of worked out, the main change is going from the 10spline axles up to 24spline I think with the rest mainly being cosmetic? (ie: Same engine specs & Transmission & T'fer case model & gearing with changes to dash, etc ??)


    Rob

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discomark View Post
    This is the fuel return line and looks like part of it is missing.
    Spill rail hose Land Rover Discovery 300 Tdi MJN100910

    Also there was a Timing belt repair kit that should have been fitted to the 95.
    300tdi timing cover

    Also the White radiator overflow bottles are the good ones as its the black ones that split.
    Cheers
    Mark
    Thanks Mark..... especially for the Links

    Rob

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    Tyres: I certainly what to run a larger than std tyre but not that larger that Hwy/City driving suffers..... Was thinking to start off with what seems fairly common tyre size - 245/75/16. Not sure how large u can go b4 u loose too much low down torque and performance on & off the road?? Mods: Just the usual - Snorkel / Winch Bar / Winch / Roofrack / Rearbar (at some point) / Dual Batteries The sort of driving I'll be doing: The usual to/from work - Weekend exploring through the Bush with the chance of doing some more difficult tracks/climbs if req'd to get to where I want to get to .... Rob
    I have that tyre size and all the mods you've listed except rear bar. I think those tyres are a good choice on a Disco, but any bigger and you lose too much power without gearing changes. A '95 - '98 Disco will do that fine.

    The 200Tdi Disco's we're until 94. In 95 they started being 300tdi. Then in 99 the Td5's start.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post


    I have that tyre size and all the mods you've listed except rear bar. I think those tyres are a good choice on a Disco, but any bigger and you lose too much power without gearing changes. A '95 - '98 Disco will do that fine.

    The 200Tdi Disco's we're until 94. In 95 they started being 300tdi. Then in 99 the Td5's start.
    Thanks Justin....

    I've just seen a '99 model TDi which must be the VERY last of them.... It also has ABS in it..... would this be a problem? I know there's obviously issues in the TD5 versions with the 3 amigos but if it only has ABS and in time it fails to work I assume it just reverts back to a NORMAL braking system ??

    Also.... Did ALL Tdi's come with PLASTIC FUEL TANKS ?? If not, is this an issue for punches / holes etc? I assume this would have some sort of metal protecting guard around it..... is this proponed to rusting, etc?

  6. #16
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    ABS and other safety features such as airbags make the car safer on the bitumen which is where we all drive for 98% of the time. If I had the choice I would never buy any car without ABS. I've had two discos and a deefer with ABS and never had a problem with ABS or any electronics for 12 years and many hundreds of thousands of kays. I think some old school peeps are afraid of electronics for no reason other than they don't understand them

    Also, plastic fuel tanks are fine. I've never heard of one being punctured (mentally preparing myself for the onslaught of those who know more than I )

  7. #17
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    I don't have ABS and I have an after-market long range fuel tank.

    Personally I wouldn't turn down a car because it has ABS (electronics). I think the benefits would outweigh the negatives in a simple case like that.

    Never had a plastic fuel tank, but I tend to agree with gusthedog. It's not a huge risk I don't think. Even if you hit a plastic tank hard enough to put a hole in it - is there a guarantee a steel one would survive? Regardless of steel or plastic, if you are really worried, you can fit some protection, then forget about it.

    I'm sure you'll get opinions either way on ABS and fuel tanks...
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  8. #18
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    Gusthedog may drive 98% on tarmac, but others certainly do more offroading than that,, I may be an"old school peep" (?WTF?), but also being a mechanic I know that 98% of 4WD'ers have no idea how to repair or maintain an ABS system and it is not a necessity off road anyhow. So as I said unless you have deep pockets stay with the KISS principle.
    My 94 300TDi is getting up around 500,000klms, only problems I have had is with head gaskets, that is until I fitted new head and laminated metal head gasket, so stick with something that's not going to cost you a bundle to fix and ABS **** is exxy.

    Judo, you mention the benefits of ABS, how many drivers know what ABS allows you to do while braking, the majority of drivers in an emergency stop jump hard on the brakes and strangle the steering wheel and plunge headlong into the vehicle/tree/pole in front of them, It may stop wheel skidding, but if you don't know how to take advantage of that, then it's no better than standard brakes, Regards Frank.

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    Question

    Found a bit of history on the '99 model D1 from the LR Service Mechanic. He informed me what it needed doing and when I told him the price, his opinion was that its probably a little too much for what would be req'd to get a RWC for it.... So I either offer him a lot less (he would probably get more for it if he parts it out anyhow) or the search continues......

    Some of the problems reported:
    Injector Pump Leak
    Leaking Power Steering Pump
    a arm joint replacement
    Windows fail to go up/down in the rear...

  10. #20
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    An important question that seems to be missing here, is how much work - if any - are you planning on doing to the vehicle yourself? None, small odd jobs, some mechanical work, major mechanical work...? That will depend on which vehicle is right for you and how much you pay. A lot of people on here when purchasing an old vehicle (D1's included) are happy to fix things themselves and so what they consider a good or cheap purchase maybe different to your ideal purchase.

    For example, when you list issues, are you looking for advice on whether they will be expensive to fix, or how many hours it will take you to fix in the shed?

    Cheers.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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