You probably need castor correction bushes.
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You probably need castor correction bushes.
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I might do them when/if i get around to rebuilding the axles with lockers and hd axles ect. Thats on the one day list unless i happen to blow up one soon. Which i wouldnt put past happening.
But thanks for the tip i honestly wouldnt have thought to change them. This is my first real 4x4 car that I'm working on.
Long term a 3' lift is a definite for castor correction - bushes, rods, or slotted swivels - the latter being the best fix (check your swivel bearings are ok first), the rubber donut in the rear propshaft will die quicker - just change it more frequently or swap it for a uni joint, adjustable panhard rod, and the list goes on.
Never a simple fix when you are talking custom.
Glad you are happy with it!
I noticed a slight improvement when i put the castor bushes in but also noticed a slight vibration at low speed so might swap the front shaft over for a spare i have with good uni's.
Or bring it around and we can press a new uni into it. More likely it is the change of prop angle causing it, hence why slotted swivels are the ideal solution.
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Thats true as the castor bushes make it worse, i got the bushes in another set of arms for less than 1 rubber bush.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSmith
I cant drive but my old man owns a bearing business so uni's and a press arent a problem. Also has a milling machine so just need a spare pair of swivels to slot.
That'll work. Of course once you are back on your feet.
Somebody did a great how to DIY slotting swivels, Slunnie maybe?. Not as necessary at 2"lift so its lower on my to do list.
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