Thread: Missing Key Remote Fob

Well, there's good news and bad news.
I don't have the receiver module behind the glove box , but I don't have to spend the money on the fob and programming.
Looks like mine is a pretty basic model. (A bit like me.)


For completeness, I DO have a diagnostic port under the dash.
It turns out that you just have to look in the correct spot.
I was looking inside the opening panel.
It is below that, and above where the clutch would be if it had one. (In case there's another mug like me reading this in the future...)


Looking at Plan C now, a third party central locking kit.
Jeff

Hi all.
Just a bit of an update on this one as I thought someone else might want to do this in the future.
I spent a bit of time on the weekend looking at the possibility of using a third party remote control unit to activate the existing central locking which is currently ONLY activated by the button or key in the driver's door.
According to the circuit diagram and story in the "Electrical Troubleshooting Manual" (http://photos.techy.com.au/lrd1/d1electrical.pdf), the locking is controlled in the driver's door as there is no Theft Alarm System in my model.
The key in the driver's door, or the button moves a double pole micro-switch which power the circuits to the other doors and also swaps the ground to the other side of the circuit for the other doors.
Unfortunately, if you apply power to these circuits externally, the micro-switches are in the wrong position and provide a direct line to earth.
This shorts the circuit and blows the fuse. (I can show you the blown fuse to confirm that this is the case. )


My next step is to pull the door apart and see if it possible to change the circuits in some way to get this to work. (Any suggestions on this gratefully received.)
I could take out the micro-switches and just have the remote do the job easily enough, but it would be nice to have the same original key/button functionality as well as the remote.


More to come...
Jeff

Originally Posted by Old Gold

Hi all.
Just a bit of an update on this one as I thought someone else might want to do this in the future.
I spent a bit of time on the weekend looking at the possibility of using a third party remote control unit to activate the existing central locking which is currently ONLY activated by the button or key in the driver's door.
According to the circuit diagram and story in the "Electrical Troubleshooting Manual" (http://photos.techy.com.au/lrd1/d1electrical.pdf), the locking is controlled in the driver's door as there is no Theft Alarm System in my model.
The key in the driver's door, or the button moves a double pole micro-switch which power the circuits to the other doors and also swaps the ground to the other side of the circuit for the other doors.
Unfortunately, if you apply power to these circuits externally, the micro-switches are in the wrong position and provide a direct line to earth.
This shorts the circuit and blows the fuse. (I can show you the blown fuse to confirm that this is the case. )


My next step is to pull the door apart and see if it possible to change the circuits in some way to get this to work. (Any suggestions on this gratefully received.)
I could take out the micro-switches and just have the remote do the job easily enough, but it would be nice to have the same original key/button functionality as well as the remote.


More to come...
Jeff

I've got an alarm version, but it was fairly easy to do with a $7 ebay remote central locking system on the driver's side circuit. This then drives everything else.

Damien

Looking at the circuit diagram, you apply +12V through OK to lock and -12V through OK to unlock. You just piggyback into the wires without changing anything else. The microswitches are not used (except for the other doors) and it does not short the fuse. I used a unit like this and I think option 2.

Thanks for the input Damian.
I was hoping it was that easy when I started.
It is my understanding that it is a different setup on these models with no alarm though... (but I've been wrong before...)
On the alarm models, the alarm unit is the controller and the 5 doors are slaves. There are two single pole switches in the driver's door for the button and key, that feed back to the controller, (not to the other doors), and the controller powers all door actuators directly. (See T1 - Theft Alarm System)
Applying power and earth to the K (Pink) and O (Orange) wires works because they are isolated (not connected to anything) by the alarm controller when not actually locking or unlocking the doors.


On this one, the driver's door is the controller and the other 4 door actuators are slaves.
Power is supplied directly from the drivers door to the other doors through either the K (Pink) or O (Orange) wire when either the button or key change the DPST (Double pole single throw) switch.
The other wire is earthed by the switches at the same time as the return/earth for the slave's motors.
Power is only supplied for a few seconds and the circuit is interrupted by the solid state timer device that controls the relay on the left of the drawing, (See attachment) but the actual power/earth switching is done by the mechanical micro-switch which does not isolate the connections when it is finished.


This means that the wire you would want to apply +12v to externally, to operate the slaves, is already connected to earth by the micro-switch.
Does that make sense?

As I said, this is my understanding of it and I would be happy to be proven wrong. (Again).
I have not really put my mind to trying to work out how to add an external controller to this yet, but I am more than happy for someone to tell me how to do it.


I am also amazed that you can buy 2 fobs and a complete receiver/controller for $15, when LR and other car manufacturers want hundreds of dollars just for a replacement fob.
Oh wait... no I'm not.


Thanks again for the input.
Jeff

The first step is to put +12V over OK without disconnecting from the microswitches (i.e., just expose the copper and tap into the lines). Not sure if you have done that, but it's how I think things are currently set up in my LR with the whole setup in the front left footwell. If it blows a fuse replace and try the next.

The next step would be to drive a relay or relays to isolate OK from the control unit whenever you are putting +12V or -12V to lift or lower the front driver door lock. Once the relays go away and it realises the master switch is up or down it will raise or lower the others in response. I can probably work out a circuit but it should be fairly simple.

Finally if none of the above works you could try exotic things like giving key left and key right actions (note key in is separate), but I think this will not be required.