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Thread: Hard starting D1 3.9 V8 Dual fuel

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Hard starting D1 3.9 V8 Dual fuel

    Hi all
    After suffering ever increasing backfires (should actually be called a front fire by the way it blows the lid off the filter cover) and erratic idling I swapped out the stock coil and ignition amp for the "Bee ute" solution installing a Bosch MEC717 and BIM024...sort of good!?

    Initially short crank and fire...perfect (cold and hot)
    Idle a little high at 1000-1100 however settles at 550-700 (dash taco)

    Fast forward 2days and totally changed...

    4-6 seconds crank and fire - cold or hot
    Idle 1200-1000 then settles at a lumpy 800-500 and every 15 seconds near stall.

    1. Recently installed a new LPG mixer thingy that died and cost me $600
    2. Petrol is used for emergency only because it runs very rough I.e. Cough and splutters wants to rocket off but never quite gets there ...

    I'm thinking of tinkering with the idle screw as before the new stuff went in I had it set at around 500 on idle. Any tips would be very much appreciated

  2. #2
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    Adjust the idle mixture on your LPG system. All new systems that I used to fit needed a couple of retunes before they settled down to a regular idle.

    BTW I doubt that you bought a mixer for $600, you probably bought a converter. And I hope that at $600 it came with a layer of yellowish paint . Also, unless you find a brand name and model on the converter I can't tell you where the idle mixture adjustment lives.

  3. #3
    adDisco Guest

    A few thoughts

    Hi, I'm not sure whether this will help, but I've had a really good run with no backfiring issues on my 96 Discovery V8. The LPG fitter who installed my system in 2008 had the advice, "keep your electrical system in top order and you should have no backfiring problems" and with mine I've had no major issues in 65,000 km. A set of black Bosch leads and NGK plugs has worked OK for me with distributor timing and lpg tuning right. I did have some problems 18 months ago with the car running a bit rough on petrol and tracked it down to the injectors, a couple of which had gummed up through insufficient running on petrol I assume. At a cost of $30 per injector to have them cleaned in Aust. I put in a full set of reconditioned injectors for $100 from the US resulting instantly in a return to smooth running and power.


    So maybe something in my tale to consider?


    Cheers, adDisco

  4. #4
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    Hi Bee utey

    You were on the button, its a brand new LPG converter unit that cost $300 the labour and sundries capped off at $600


    I stopped tinkering with the idle screw thingy and have attached some picks of the installation and converter... I couldn't see any screw adjustment on it but then again I'm not too sure of what it is I'm looking for... and very sorry for posting a reply on the start of the Easter long weekend

    Cheers
    freddagg22
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    adDisco Guest

    Is there a brand name stamped on the converter

    Hi freddagg22, Can you see a brand name of the converter stamped on it somewhere. All the ones I've seen have a brand name stamped on them. If you can find it then an internet search of, "tuning x lpg converter" may help you? A search of "tuning lpg converter" may help anyway?

  6. #6
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    OMVL R90E converter. The idle mixture adjustment screws are on the side facing the washer bottle, the 10mm hex one with the spring is the sensitivity adjustment and most likely to be the one out of adjustment. The 8mm one is the base idle and may need tweaking if the sensitivity screw adjustment doesn't make it stable.

    BTW those converters are only $185 free postage on ebay, you have been charged top dollar.

    omvl | eBay

    Oh and I forgot, you may have the red and blue wires from the pickup reversed. No matter how many times I describe the correct order people often get it wrong.

    Yours



    Mine



    Your timing will have needed a lot of adjustment to get it to run and your rotor button will not be aimed correctly at the cap terminals for firing. Put the wires on the correct way, readjust the timing to 10 degrees BTDC at idle, see how it goes then.
    Last edited by bee utey; 3rd April 2015 at 09:47 AM. Reason: wiring fault

  7. #7
    adDisco Guest

    Let us know how you went

    Hi freddagg22, Do let us know how things went with tuning the lpg. Bee utey's advice is great to have. Are you going to tackle your running on petrol issue?

  8. #8
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    Hi Bee utey
    Pins 3 and 7 go back to the dizzy however I did the wire swap and... Started (surprised the hell out of me) sounded very deep and throaty at idle and angry when I took it round the block ...however no guts and lumpy at the lower rev range 1500-2000???

    - the Newgas tech ripped me good... That just gives me the sh@ts

    AdDisco - I'll tackle the petrol issue as soon as possible ....and update

    Cheers lads

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freddagg22 View Post
    Hi Bee utey
    Pins 3 and 7 go back to the dizzy however I did the wire swap and... Started (surprised the hell out of me) sounded very deep and throaty at idle and angry when I took it round the block ...however no guts and lumpy at the lower rev range 1500-2000???
    Sounds like they were probably right before, I was just going by my colours, yours may be done differently. I try to keep everything consistent with OEM so they are all alike.

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