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Thread: 3.5 v8 no start

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    Like 3.5 flapper rangie? No.
    No Schroder valve in fuel rail like a 3.9 either, well at least mine hasn’t.
    As said, check fuel pressure, may be a dead pump or fuel hose in tank damaged. Maybe sticky injector/s. verify it has spark and timing is somewhere near correct, ignition systems in these can be iffy, search bim024 module upgrade.
    I've seen the word "flapper" come up a few times now, what exactly does this refer to lol. Assuming it's to do with the throttle setup?
    Pump is working. No leaks from hoses. Has spark and unless timing can change itself that should be fine to.
    Cheers for the reply

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    Like 3.5 flapper rangie? No.
    No Schroder valve in fuel rail like a 3.9 either, well at least mine hasn’t.
    As said, check fuel pressure, may be a dead pump or fuel hose in tank damaged. Maybe sticky injector/s. verify it has spark and timing is somewhere near correct, ignition systems in these can be iffy, search bim024 module upgrade.
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Often this can just be drooly old injectors flooding the engine.

    A new set of plugs often does wonders .

    The procedure to start a flooded engine is to hold your foot to the floor on the accelerator, do not pump and it may start. The 14CUX is designed to have this as an anti flood clearing mechanism.
    Regards Philip A
    The current plugs are still very new. Changed them about 800ks ago, but I'll whip them out tomorrow and see what their like. I'll do it before I do the flooded start method.
    Thanks heaps for the reply

  3. #13
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    Also just wanna say thanks for the fast responses guys, seems like I came to the right place for help!

  4. #14
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Yep, you sure did. Always plenty here ready to help. It’s a great place. 👍
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  5. #15
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    Do the ignition module swap as suggested (BIM024) and pull the plugs and see if they are wet.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maliz View Post
    I've seen the word "flapper" come up a few times now, what exactly does this refer to lol. Assuming it's to do with the throttle setup?
    Pump is working. No leaks from hoses. Has spark and unless timing can change itself that should be fine to.
    Cheers for the reply
    Flapper refers to the old L-jetronic bosch style flapper AFM system fitted to the older 3.5 rangies, yours will be the later style with a hotwire style AFM.

    There is a hose that conects the in-tank fuel pump to the the fittings in the top of the pump holder/ level sender unit. This can fail, pump will still sound like its pumping fuel, but its only circulating in the tank, ie no external leaks. Will cause no, or very low fuel pressure to injectors.

    As already said, pull plugs and check. If dry and not starting, start looking at the fuel side, if wet start looking at the ign side, tho dont discount either.

    Dont assume that because you can hear the pump, that its got fuel pressure at the injectors, or 800k old plugs are good. Can be very easy to miss the obvious sometimes.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    Flapper refers to the old L-jetronic bosch style flapper AFM system fitted to the older 3.5 rangies, yours will be the later style with a hotwire style AFM.

    There is a hose that conects the in-tank fuel pump to the the fittings in the top of the pump holder/ level sender unit. This can fail, pump will still sound like its pumping fuel, but its only circulating in the tank, ie no external leaks. Will cause no, or very low fuel pressure to injectors.

    As already said, pull plugs and check. If dry and not starting, start looking at the fuel side, if wet start looking at the ign side, tho dont discount either.

    Dont assume that because you can hear the pump, that its got fuel pressure at the injectors, or 800k old plugs are good. Can be very easy to miss the obvious sometimes.
    Well I pulled the plugs, they were pretty black and wet with fuel. I swapped them out for my old set I recently took and and cranked it over. No change really, it fired a few times then went back to just winding over and now I have another set of wet fouled plugs. Didn't have much spare time yesterday but hopefully this afternoon I can take a better look and start diagnosing

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Welcome to the forum. 😊

    Could be a lot of things but I’d start with fuel pressure if it just pops occasionally - very probably got a faulty fuel pump. This lives in the top of the tank. The older RRC’s had an access cover for this but the Disco won’t, so it’s a bit of a **** of a job if that’s what it is. When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the fuel pump?

    Also, there’s a Schrader valve on the fuel injection manifold just after where the incoming fuel line connects and the fuel pressure can be checked here.

    My late '95 D1 facelift did have the access panel so you might be pleasantly surprised if you need to go down that path.
    Pull the carpet & heavy mat out of the way & it is sort of in the centre line of the vehicle.

    Bon chance.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maliz View Post
    Well I pulled the plugs, they were pretty black and wet with fuel. I swapped them out for my old set I recently took and and cranked it over. No change really, it fired a few times then went back to just winding over and now I have another set of wet fouled plugs. Didn't have much spare time yesterday but hopefully this afternoon I can take a better look and start diagnosing
    Dud fuel pressure reg maybe. Can bleed fuel into manifold when failed. Pull vac hose off it and check for fuel, there shouldn’t be any.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  10. #20
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    Can also check the efi coolant temp sensor, but when I have them fail it would usually start and run cold, but flood and stall when starting to warm up a bit. Should be around 300 Ohms at operating temp, can’t remember cold but certainly not open circuit.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

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