Reply With QuoteLooks good. I recommend getting a proper kit for the belt as it should come with the upgraded stud for the tensioner as it may not have been done. It’s a bugger if it breaks.
Master
I bought a cheap manual 300TDI Disco with a blown headgasket because it was cheap. Now I need to get it running and back on the road as I need something bigger than the turbo taxi (BA falcon turbo) to haul kids, kayaks, mountain bikes etc.
It's nothing exciting, just a white car with a 2" lift and 31x10.5 tyres on the old turbo mags (no idea why I call them that, it;s just what my father used to call them).
02 Disco2.jpg
It huffed and puffed and brew the dipstick out, but the head seems flat and fine. I did break one glowplug off when removing them, but I live in QLD, so don't need them to start the car anyway.
05 HG.jpg
I made a list of what parts I needed. My father has a gates timing belt sitting on the shelf I could have, but I figured I better check what drive pulley it has first to see if I need to buy the fancy kit. So I got to use one of those tools that I bought 10 years ago because "I'll probably need it again at some point". This type of puller works very well, and is easy to use. Got the timing cover off, updated drive pulley, so I ordered all the parts last night.
06 Pulley.jpg
Today I had grand plans of throwing the jetski on the water and taking the kids out onto the ocean to look for dolphins, but my son pulled up sick so I got a day at home working on the car. First job, pull out all the seats. I'll give them all a good clean and scrub to remove almost 30 years of sweat and grime.
07 seats.jpg
Then the real fun stuff, removing the headlining. The disintegrating foam gets everywhere, so I immediately found it in my eyes every time I moved anything. Even with safety goggles on I still copped. As you'd expect the foam dust also tasted terrible...
08 interior.jpg
09 interior.jpg
10 hood lining.jpg
11 hood lining.jpg
After an hour of so I got it out and the roof looks quite nice inside. Not sure what I was expecting. I'll probably slap a few sheets of dynomat on the flat open panels just to reduce the general drummy-ness since I have some sitting around.
12 interior.jpg
After giving the interior a good vacuum to remove all the foam dust I took to the hoodlining with the scrub brush and vacuum to remove all the dead foam stuff from the head lining. It took a while, but I got there so now I can do something with it. I don't really feel like wrapping it with new fabric, so I think I'll go with the elcheapo option and just spray it grey with some vinyl spray.
13 hood lining.jpg
While I was mucking around today, I noticed a clunk in the front end when I turn the steering wheel a bit so I'll have to get one of the kids to rock the wheel while I crawl under the car and see what's happening. I'm guessing I'll be replacing al the tie-rod ends, which is no big deal. I need to get some new tyres too, as the current ones are retreads and the tread looks like it's starting to peel.
Does anyone have a design for rock sliders for these? I found this thread which seems like a pretty good, basic design. I'll have to whip up a set when I've got some spare time, if I can't find any for sale second hand.
D1 rock/tree sliders!!
LordRover
SubscriberLooks good. I recommend getting a proper kit for the belt as it should come with the upgraded stud for the tensioner as it may not have been done. It’s a bugger if it breaks.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
I pulled the timing belt today. The stud looks like new. It is pressed in or wound in? No easy visible way to remove it that I could see, but either way, I think it'll be fine.Originally Posted by Tins
Master
Today my son was still sick, so plenty of shed time while he slept. Started with giving the seats a good scrub. They cam up looking pretty good. Now just need to wait until the dry up.
14 seats.jpg
15 seats.jpg
Then I set about attending to a bunch of small rust spots showing. I just realised I didn't take and pics of the bubble under the seal of the alpine windows. The plenum was pretty good, with a few minor bubbles under the seam sealer. These got the wire brush treatment, before the rust converter, primer and some white. I'll slap some new seam sealer over the top once the rest are done.
16 rust.jpg
17 rust.jpg
18 rust.jpg
19 rust.jpg
Then when I was looking at a few bubbles on the drivers and passengers footwell, I realised the foam underlay was soaking and holding moisture, so I make the footwell sections 'removable'.
20 rust.jpg
21 rust.jpg
I wasn't expecting what I found, as the underside looks pretty good, but no use saving it for the future when it'll just be worse and harder to fix.
22 rust.jpg
23 rust.jpg
The passenger side was the worst by far, but after a quick attack with the wire brush and scraper it wasn't too bad. There is a hole through, but nothing a small patch won't fix. I haven't attacked the drivers side yet. I found a hole there too (it spread from one of the plug holes already there), but the extent seems far less based on first appearances. It's a pain, but realistically it's just a few more days work to fix it and then I know I'll get a few years out of it, rather than just bogging it and have a big hole fall out in six months time...
LordRover
SubscriberScrewed in. If it's 8mm ( I think, someone else will remember ) then it's been changed.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
I wasn't paying that much attention, but M8 seems about right.
LordRover
SubscriberThis is why you should pay attention
IMG_3062.jpg
IMG_3068.jpg
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
That looks like a bad day.
I haven't got the parts yet, I'm just pulling things apart in preparation. I'll check it tonight when I get stuck back into it all.
Master
Monday I had a little spare time, so I pulled out the plastic inner guard liner as it partially covered part of the rust hole. Then I figured it'd be easy to pull the guard too for access.
Yesterday after work I busted out the angle grinder fitted with the wire brush and cleaned the underbody off for a better look, and went over the inside. Once the extent of the holes was found I made some cuts. We're not here to fornicate with arachnids. Hopefully this afternoon I'll have time to pull the drivers side guard.
24 guard.jpg
25 rust.jpg
26 rust.jpg
Master
I got a bit done over the weekend.
I continued cutting out the rust and cleaned everythign up with wire brushes, the flappy disc and a good dosing of rust converter.
27 rust.jpg
28 rust.jpg
Then made some patches out of the bootlid of Australia's best ever car, a BA Falcon.
29 patch.jpg
30 patch.jpg
I'd forgotten how much I enjoy making and shaping repair patches. I was dreading the 'welding in' part though due to only having access to a cheap 90's mig that only works in gasless mode due to years of neglect.
32 mig.jpg
This time was much easier than the last time attempted welding in a patch though, as I was welding to decent material, not almost rusted through 1965 Mustang floor, and I wasn't lying on my back cramped under the car welding over my head for the most of it. My welding is still on par for a desk jockey, but the penetration was good and the original was only spot welded in anyway. I added more tack welds than this, ground them back to look less terrible and coated the whole thing with epoxy ust kill on both sides to seal it all up. I'll throw on some seam sealer tonight. Then I'll strip back the surface rust on the rest of the the floor and coat that too.
As they say, it's good enough for the girls I go out with.
31 patch.jpg
I also now have all the parts sitting here to fix the engine. Just need time to get in there and do it.
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