Thread: D1 300Tdi spring options

The front springs are designed to carry that steel bar, winch etc, I would re-evaluate once they're installed. They're actually a Defender spring, so it doesn't surprise me that it is stiff. Being a raised spring it will give you probably 40mm over standard, then more because of the expected weight. I suspect the KRFR-03 will not be stiff enough, probably at approx 190lb/in

The rear is a relatively light spring, probably about 240-270lb/in progressive. These only give about 30mm lift.

At this stage, I'd just put some 20mm shims over the rear springs and then reevaluate once you've installed the new bar, winch and batteries.

The springs are also not normally standard rates, just about all lift springs are have a higher spring rate.

Can also try refitting rear sway bar….and remove the front one….already a lot of roll stiffness due to the radius rod design anyway.

The rear bar will invert the links with raised springs, I have 25mm spacers at the chassis mount on mine, so far so good.

What’s the tie out in the front? Makes a huge difference in the way they turn in.

I agree, I would also leave the rear sway bar connected. One of the challenges with Disco's is controlling the rear and the rear sway bar is a big part of that solution, especially with some lift.

Originally Posted by Rick1970

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What’s the tie out in the front? Makes a huge difference in the way they turn in.

Don't you mean 'toe in'?

DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Don't you mean 'toe in'?

DL

Should be toe out……1-2mm roughly.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

The front springs are designed to carry that steel bar, winch etc, I would re-evaluate once they're installed. They're actually a Defender spring, so it doesn't surprise me that it is stiff. Being a raised spring it will give you probably 40mm over standard, then more because of the expected weight. I suspect the KRFR-03 will not be stiff enough, probably at approx 190lb/in

The rear is a relatively light spring, probably about 240-270lb/in progressive. These only give about 30mm lift.

At this stage, I'd just put some 20mm shims over the rear springs and then reevaluate once you've installed the new bar, winch and batteries.

The springs are also not normally standard rates, just about all lift springs are have a higher spring rate.

Thanks! Where have you found the spring rates? I'd really like to compare them all before I try something else. Do you know if there are any other King springs of a correct diameter/length I should check that I haven't listed?

I did take some measurements before and 1500km after:

Originally Posted by Rick1970

Can also try refitting rear sway bar….and remove the front one….already a lot of roll stiffness due to the radius rod design anyway.

The rear bar will invert the links with raised springs, I have 25mm spacers at the chassis mount on mine, so far so good.

What’s the tie out in the front? Makes a huge difference in the way they turn in.

Is it true that early Discos weren't fitted with sway bars from the factory? I'm keen to try it without the front sway bar as well, for both handling and articulation. It'd certainly make oil changes less messy as well.

Not sure what the toe is set to, it's due for tyres soon so I'll get an alignment then. Turn in feels fine, it just feels like the roll stiffness imbalance is making it push mid-corner. Given what I've done to it so far, that makes sense to me. The rear doesn't feel bad at the moment however I won't know while the front end is doing all of the roll control.

Originally Posted by Dauntless

Thanks! Where have you found the spring rates? I'd really like to compare them all before I try something else. Do you know if there are any other King springs of a correct diameter/length I should check that I haven't listed?

I did take some measurements before and 1500km after:


Is it true that early Discos weren't fitted with sway bars from the factory? I'm keen to try it without the front sway bar as well, for both handling and articulation. It'd certainly make oil changes less messy as well.

Not sure what the toe is set to, it's due for tyres soon so I'll get an alignment then. Turn in feels fine, it just feels like the roll stiffness imbalance is making it push mid-corner. Given what I've done to it so far, that makes sense to me. The rear doesn't feel bad at the moment however I won't know while the front end is doing all of the roll control.

Early ones didn’t have bars fitted, dropping both Dosnt really do that much, leaving rear on goes some way to forcing a bit more articulation into the front. Had all on, all off, and only front or rear on mine….. rear only seems to be best compromise…… and certainly better on road that none at all.

Originally Posted by Dauntless

Thanks! Where have you found the spring rates? I'd really like to compare them all before I try something else. Do you know if there are any other King springs of a correct diameter/length I should check that I haven't listed?

I did take some measurements before and 1500km after:


Is it true that early Discos weren't fitted with sway bars from the factory? I'm keen to try it without the front sway bar as well, for both handling and articulation. It'd certainly make oil changes less messy as well.

Not sure what the toe is set to, it's due for tyres soon so I'll get an alignment then. Turn in feels fine, it just feels like the roll stiffness imbalance is making it push mid-corner. Given what I've done to it so far, that makes sense to me. The rear doesn't feel bad at the moment however I won't know while the front end is doing all of the roll control.

Years ago I installed the D2 version of them and we tested the rates at Lovells Springs. This was while developing a very new and different setup with Lovells and Bilstein. There is a bit of parts sharing. Your Disco is more level than just about any other Disco on the planet with those H2G measurements, I'd be very happy with that aspect of them. If you're not happy with the stiffness of the fronts, then the KRFR-03, but if it is the ride you're feeling, then more than likely it will be due to shock valving. Even stiff springs (within range) don't affect the ride comfort significantly, but shocks can. I'd also look at the Old Man Emu range, I think they're closer to the spec you're after but you'd have to check the rates - I haven't run them. You're probably looking at about 220lb/in front and 270+ on the rear depending on load. But, as I was saying previously, I'd wait and pass judgement after your bar, winch and batteries are fitted as those springs are designed to carry those loads.

Early Discos didn't run sway bars, but they also drove and handled like a boat - which is why they were fitted ever since. My Disco2 has electronic swaybars (ACE) which I can switch off, and it handles and steers really badly with the sway bars in floppy (disconnected) mode. I'd never drive it on the road like that. If you try it out then you will have experienced it. Maybe consider sway bar disconnects instead. The Disco update in 1994 is a far better handling version.

In relation to mid corner push, is it actually push or does it feel like push? If it is actual push from hitting corners stupidly hard and putting it into a slide, then LandRover build that in and I think it is a part of the reason why they spec such low tyre pressures which also induces a safer push and removes some twitchiness. If it is twitching and just feels like midcorner push, that can also happen because it hasn't got enough roll control at the rear which is why it twitches after turn in. ie Turn in, body rolls creating the feeling of push, then it takes that set for the rest of the corner and exit. Thats a Disco problem with a high steel roof, rear links on an angle and little rear sway control. That was a problem I spent a lot of time on developing a solution to in the Disco2 with big lifts and the solution is sway control on the rear. It also removes the flightiness and twitch out of it at higher road speeds.