Thread: My DIY rock sliders

nice work Boxer, careful or old mate Carlos will be placing his orders I know he is about to make his (and mine hopefully) so some pics from underneath would be appreciated. Did you run some flat plate up the inside of the body moulding where the bolts go thru?

cheers

Boxer they look fantastic, there are some very talented people on this forum, I could'nt even replicate that out of cardboard let alone steel.

Not interested in doing any more for a little profit on the side are you?

Thanks guys. These are my first set and I kept them pretty simple. The plate that bolts them to the body is welded to the sliders on the top edge and the back and it's 3mm, so it won't go anywhere. On the inside I've only run gal bolts through with washers. I had people suggesting crush tube and the like, but it all comes down to what you need them for. If I was builing a comp truck (which would be fun), they'd be off the chassis and Mack Truck proof, but these will do the job for the kind of driving I do

Oh and yeah, I'm keen to do more, it's just a matter of digging up the hours, but that should be achieveable.

Will try getting some underside pics tomorrow.

Looks excellent boxer can’t wait for the underside picks.
On another point when you fitted your flares do you still have the plastic inner guards in the wheel arches.

Very nice Boxer!!!
Also like to see some pics of undrneath

CHEERS TIM.

Here's a quick shot I grabbed this morning. As you can see they're pretty basic. The plate that bolts to the sill is stitch welded to the panel up the top and on the back. If I was to go any further with them I would have run a 50 bar welded to it under the sill itself which would be bolted underneath using rivnuts. But as I said before it's a matter of usage and by doing that I'm again adding weight and further trashing my fuel consumption :P

ps: that sill damage is from the weekend before I fitted them

Originally Posted by Boxer

ps: that sill damage is from the weekend before I fitted them

Was looking at that would not be hard to tap back with an adjustment hammer.