Thread: Buying advice? - '96 V8 manual

G'day mate,like yourself I too am new to this forum.
However I have quite a few years experience in the car game.
You are right to be suspicious of the seller's claim the vehicle has not actually overheated,a properly cooked alloy V8 can be a pricey repair.Unscrupulous sellers often 'doctor' the car up and liquidate rather than pay for a rebuild.Alloy engines can lose their 'temper' or metal hardness when overheated,meaning big $$.A quick head gasket change will only provide a bandaid solution,just long enough for the new owner to get down the highway.

When your independent mechanic checks the compression,have him also check for any sign of an additive in the cooling system,like 'Chemi-Weld'or similair.This can mask a cracked head.Also ask if he feels the heads have been off recently,meaning a possible quick-fix has been done.

Another big item on your checklist should be a solid service history.If your 200,000 km engine has been serviced reguarly then she'll have many more miles left in her,but a schedule book with missing services,or no books at all,could mean a tired,neglected engine/drivetrain.

Also,I would avoid any heavily modified Disco's.Mud tires,big suspension lifts,diff locks etc,usually mean a car that has worked extra hard.If you want those mods,buy a stocker,and do them yourself later.

I'm a big fan of the V8's,own an oldie myself,but I must admit I be heading down the Tdi (not Td5) route if I was buying a Disco.Some nice ones for sale in Perth for less than your seller is asking.Bit of a drive home though!

Redbook lists the average PRIVATE selling price of 96 V8 as being between $4000 and $5700 for an auto,and $3700 and $5300 for a manual.

Last but not least by any means,look out for cancer.In our tropical coastal climate,it can be a hidden menace.Check for rust bubbles around the roof windows,rain gutters,window frames,sills,really anywhere metal is joined.Don't let anyone tell you they are 'paint bubbles'.

If your cruise control,electric windows and central locking still work,that is a bonus.

Happy hunting,Andrew.

Thanks for the advice Andrew. Like you, I'd prefer a Tdi, and Im happy to buy from Perth if I can find the right car. I have a budget of $10K for the vehicle and am ideally looking for something with less than 150,000 k's on it. However, I'm considering the cheaper, local, higher mile V8 because it's here and, it's cheaper.

From what I've seen online lately, a sub-150K km Tdi for less than $10K is a bit of an ask - in WA - unless it's '94-ish or earlier. Something I've read here (or somewhere else in cyberspace), and I can't remember what it was, has convinced me to look only at '96 or later. Perhaps I should re-consider an earlier (94-ish) model? Wasn't there an update version released around '94... or was that 92? Is there much difference between say, a 94, 96 or '97 disco?

Also, can you (or anyone here) fill me in on the disco gearboxes? I've heard some bad things about LR transmissions, but nothing concrete. I have no real preference between auto or manual, but vaguely remember hearing that V8 manual boxes aren't all that solid... or was it the autos? I won't be doing any heavy towing - just the tinny to the beach or trailer to the tip.

Again, any advice most welcome.

Thanks,
Scott

Asking price is not the selling price. The selling price is just a wish. That Disco is way too expensive and has the potential to cost you the price of the car in engine repairs alone. Run now and don't look back. These V8s are hard to sell so the ball is in your court. Bargain hard and seriously and start with half of what the seller is asking and don't budge by much. Be a [polite] financial mongrel -it is your money. You are probably the only inquiring buyer anyway with these older V8 Discos no matter what the seller says.

The $ are too high. I am selling my 95 D1 V8. No rust, LPG, excellent compression, new Performance Ignitions Dizzy, new radiator, alternator, replacement brake master and servo, front callipers etc and fastidiously serviced at 10k or less each time with Penrite HPR 30 and always the proper coolant and proper intervals...auto 275k and I know Im not getting much for it....the V8s on LPG are fantastic but there are good examples and you dont have to get a tired one. BTW the biggest failing of the V8 D1 was the lucas ignition which is why I converted mine to Australian Bosch - now Ford V8 rotor button and cap, but at major cost for this.

Cheers

Originally Posted by shinbones

Thanks for the advice Andrew. Like you, I'd prefer a Tdi, and Im happy to buy from Perth if I can find the right car. I have a budget of $10K for the vehicle and am ideally looking for something with less than 150,000 k's on it. However, I'm considering the cheaper, local, higher mile V8 because it's here and, it's cheaper.

From what I've seen online lately, a sub-150K km Tdi for less than $10K is a bit of an ask - in WA - unless it's '94-ish or earlier. Something I've read here (or somewhere else in cyberspace), and I can't remember what it was, has convinced me to look only at '96 or later. Perhaps I should re-consider an earlier (94-ish) model? Wasn't there an update version released around '94... or was that 92? Is there much difference between say, a 94, 96 or '97 disco?

Also, can you (or anyone here) fill me in on the disco gearboxes? I've heard some bad things about LR transmissions, but nothing concrete. I have no real preference between auto or manual, but vaguely remember hearing that V8 manual boxes aren't all that solid... or was it the autos? I won't be doing any heavy towing - just the tinny to the beach or trailer to the tip.

Again, any advice most welcome.

Thanks,
Scott

Mate,if she checks out mechanically,and rustwise is OK,and you can bargain him down to around $4500,might be a go.It's hard for our fellow citydwelling rover owners to comprehend just how attractive a local car can be when you live 2000km from anywhere!

Regarding your Transmission question,no LR transmission is as strong as a Cruiser/Patrol version of the same vintage,it's that simple.(Except maybe the LT77)However most of the bugs were worked out by 1996,and all transmissions respond well to good maintenance.A Disco will be a lot more rewarding to own and maintain than a japanese 4WD(in my opinion),and will ride better,and handle better than even coil sprung japanese units.However,they just are not as tough,and suffer from poor resale value.

Offroad ability is legendary.

Parts are actually quite cheap,and due to the huge aftermarket industry in the UK,are readily available here.

Buy a Disco because you want a Disco.

Put it this way....

I bought my 97 TDi manual with ARB Steel Winch bar, duel batteries, rear tow bar for just over 5,000 big ones. Had service history for the last 5 years!!!

Originally Posted by klappers

Put it this way....

I bought my 97 TDi manual with ARB Steel Winch bar, duel batteries, rear tow bar for just over 5,000 big ones. Had service history for the last 5 years!!!

You sure you didn't mean the LT95?

I say shop around also.

I bought a great Tdi 96 for good price, I spend 3K on it to get it up to standard and get everything changed and serviced for peace of mind.

There are a couple of good tdi's here in SA in car yards all over the place.
Get one of those, spend a bit on full service with new belts and fluids and drive it back.
Be good way to get to know the car also.

Happy hunting

Originally Posted by big guy

You sure you didn't mean the LT95?

I say shop around also.

I bought a great Tdi 96 for good price, I spend 3K on it to get it up to standard and get everything changed and serviced for peace of mind.

There are a couple of good tdi's here in SA in car yards all over the place.
Get one of those, spend a bit on full service with new belts and fluids and drive it back.
Be good way to get to know the car also.

Happy hunting

DOH!I assume that was meant for me?Yes your right,LT95.