Thread: Dual Battery & wiring into cabin Questions

I would think from memory a 55AH would fit in that area, most battery retailers have the battery dimentions with the batteries, as for the wiring into the cab, use 6mm auto wire and use an inline fuse to the socket outlet, I put the fuse near the socket outlet for easy access to both, so your not going back and forth from the fuse to the socket.

I also have my fridge hard wired, running off the same wire that comes from the second battery, I can get 3/4days from my 55AH running the fridge 24/7 (40ltr Waeco)

Baz.

When I had a D1 and did this I relocated the PS reservoir, made new PS hoses (it is the low pres side). You can then fit a big battery in the tray.
When I get home I’ll if I can find a pic – it was a while ago..

I bought a bigger battery for my main cranking batt and used the original N50 size batt as the aux- no ps mods required but that depends on the use of the aux batt and the size you want or need.

Thanks. So basically anything from a 50a/h upwards should do the trick for fridge, and bits hooked off the inverter like battery charger etc.

I dont want to move the P/S reservoir tank, so will find a suitable sized battery I guess.

So what about running the wire from aux bat to cabin? Did you guys use a fuse box or recommend using one to run seperate items off it and have fuses for all (like the standard fuse box under the steering wheel comparment).

For most normal needs ( running fridge etc ) I found an N50 size battery was sufficient and fits nicely into the space in front of the air filter without moving the PS reservoir.

I just used a common old Exide/Champion Extreme N50 as a second battery - it is economical and seems to last quite well. They are obtainable everywhere. These have a 650 CCA ( I think ) and 75 A/H rating.

Get a good battery clamp down kit from an Auto accessories place, it's important the battery is well bolted down. Put a 6mm rubber sheet pad under it to help absorb some vibration and avoid rubbing.

You can just put an inline blade fuse mounted in the + line near the battery. Make sure it's a weatherproof fuseholder ( one with a rubber cap over it ).

Run good thick wires ( at least 6mm ) through the firewall to power stuff in the cab, or along the chassis to the back to power the fridge.

Crimp connectors are OK if you have a good crimping tool. Test every crimp by pulling it to make sure it is solid. I like to solder it as well, if I can.

i have a 700cca 2nd batt had to move p/s res a bit
and a fuse block mounted near the batt with 5&6 mm wire
to verious spots depending on use
to get it in to the cabin there is enough holes in the fire wall








andrew
93tdi d1
65 88's2a

Just adding onto this thread. I have mounted the aux battery, all in place now. So now I need some more advice (detail).

From the battery, what do I need to do to power items both at the dash and at the back? (dash will include the UHF CB, merit plugs and maybe GPS), rear will include fridge, inverter and a few merit plugs.

So, from the battery, im thinking 8B&S wiring with a inline fuse to suit? What amp fuse should it be?

Then, should I go running the 8B&S on the chassis, or through the firewall into the cabin? If through the firewall, is there a spot on the left side of the firewall to run it so I dont need to rout it back to the right side.

Then, once this is done, how do I feed the cables from the items (UHF, etc) to the 8B&S? Do I need a fuse box of sorts so I have every item fused? And would this apply for the rear? Or am I just over complicating this?

Any advice would be great. I have VERY little knowleadge on wiring and dont want to fry an expensive fridge or UHF because I havent done it right.

Tim (Traxide), I would like you opinions as your the guru too, plus ill be ordering my stuff from you too

Thanks,

Hi Stooge,
I have attached some photos (I hope??) of my set up!

I have a '93 V8 disco and from my 2nd battery in the engine bay, I ran 2 B&S cable through the firewall (fused), (there are two grommeted holes on the left hand side of my Disco), under the door edge trim, front and back doors, and up to a marine switchboard mounted on my cargo barrier (bought on Ebay from Sidewinder electronics). It's a large diameter cable, but I went for safety and current draw than convienence

I run a fridge, inverter, compresor and 2nd high power UHF radio from the switchboard and all runs well. (Each switch on the switchboard has it's own fuse). The switchboard already has the correct connector for the above items, so no messy wireing in the car. Just battery to switchboard, then, each item to the switchboard.

I also run a winch off the 2nd battery (some may disagree), that's why it's a high cranking amp battery not a deep cycle.

I did have to move my power steering resiviour, but it was not anything major.

The dual battery side is all controlled by Redarc controller / isolator.

I hope this helps, George.