Reply With QuoteDukes of Hazzard style through the window.....
Wizard
SubscriberHi all
My door wont open, driver side is worse than passenger side. Got the cover off and it seems like the white rod with the spring on it that pushes on the metal undo plate flexes as pressure is applied, seems like it should be 1/8 inch longer. Nothing looks bent or worn. Other vehicles I have worked on have had an adjustment or a rod that can be tweeked a bit. I have did a search or am I searching wrong.
cheers
blaze
Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO
SubscriberDukes of Hazzard style through the window.....
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Moderator
Hope you're not stuck inside posting from the PDA.
Went looking in Good Oil, couldn't find anything, take pics!
Wizard
SubscriberLOL, na but I have had to access from the rear and climb the seat
cheers
blaze
A Keeper of the TGO
Try this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...highlight=lock
Any pics of the new exit stratergy
Cheers.
Wizard
SubscriberDont think that the locks have any thing to do with it as they all seem to work fine, they all lift to the normal height. When the rain stops I will have a look though , just to confirmOriginally Posted by alien d2
Try this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...highlight=lock
Any pics of the new exit stratergy
Cheers.
cheers
blaze
ForumSage
I find that when my Rangie door locks get dirty or dry (no lube left) the doors are very hard to open. Leaning in on the doors usually lets me open them from the outside.
Liberal lubrication of the lock mechanism with WD40 or similar fixes the problem.
RoverLord
no using wd40 it attracts the crud and it happens again but faster. you want a dry setup lube like teflon lube or graphite powder.
the other cause is when the little plastic rod locators give up and introduce additional slack in the system.
Fixing it all properly involves stripping the doors trim and pulling the lock out for proper cleaning and replace ment of the plastic dovies.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
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TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
YarnMaster
The locks are outside the door seals and get dust in them, which prevents you from opening them.
A good spray like BigJon suggested will free them up, if this is the problem.
Master
I have had to do two types of adjustments on my front doors.
1. Adjust the striker post (terminology?) on the B pillar to make proper contact with the door latch mechanism. (generally the door won't close0
2. The wire accuating rods in the door (different ones for the internal and external doors handles) ..... ah its coming back to me now.
1. The rods have a hook at one end with a "keeper" clip that stops it from falling out of its locating hole.
2. The other end is threaded.
3. Pop the clip off. It is rivetted to the rod so it can't be lost (yay!)
4. Take the hooked end out of its locating hole.
5. Turn the rod around to make in shorter.
6. Keep trying and adjusting until it works.
I don't have any photos but you have to work pretty much by feel anyway.
It is fiddly but you need something to keep you off the streets.
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