Removing Disco gearbox Transfer.tips, cautions?

It'sNotWorthComplaining! · 5th November 2009, 01:21 PM

I'm about to embark on replacing the R380 on my Disco series 1.V8
I am going down the Engine Crane via the interior gear console route so I can remove the transfer case and gear box as one.

I am also going to replace the clutch and pressure plate, the throw out bearing and the spigot bush. Whilst I have the gearbox out, I will replace the engine rear seal.
The transfer case has an oil weep from the front prop seal so I might as well replace all the gaskets and seals whilst I have it out.

Is the Throw out lever Cast or Pressed on the V8?

Any tips, tricks , cautions would be appreciated.

I am aware to watch out transfer alignment to avoid damage to seal, and intend using the long cut off bolts method.
Does the transfer lever Hi /Low need to be in any position on removal from gear box ?
I believe the top gear box bell housing bolts are a pain in the bum, but I reckon going in through the transmission tunnel top will allow better access to them if the engine is tilted backward?

Also can the Flywheel be machined on a Disco 1 ?, I believe Disco series 2's can not.

Any tips, tricks , cautions would be appreciated guys and girls..

**Bush65** · 5th November 2009, 03:40 PM

I loosen engine mounts and lower the gearbox and t/case end down so that I can undo the bell housing bolts with long (I have 2 x 500mm long that I join together) 1/2" drive extension bars from the rear - so much easier that way.

Sorry I don't know the material of the v8 clutch forks - I would assume pressed steel like the Tdi version.

AFAIK your reference to machining disco II flywheels applies only to the TD5 engine. I've not heard anything about being unable to machine rover v8 flywheels.

No issues with position of hi/low lever.

I remove the LT230 input gear before mating the LT230 to the gearbox. When you align the intermediate gears there is only one position where a tooth space in the high range gear is in line with a tooth space in the gear that meshes with the input gear. These tooth spaces must be toward the input gear to allow the input gear to slide past the high range gear.

Make sure you have the cross drilled input gear.

When the LT230 and gearbox are separated, the dowel pins stay with either the LT230 or the gearbox - it is a lottery which one.

So be careful when you fit your LT230 up to the replacement R380 - make sure that you have all (2 from memory) of the dowel pins and ensure that you don't have a dowel in the same location in both the LT230 and R380 (this will prevent them from mating properly.

**MacMan** · 5th November 2009, 03:47 PM

Not sure about the R380 set up, but the throwout lever on the LT77 V8 combo is a cast component.

**langy** · 5th November 2009, 05:43 PM

A couple of tips

1. Before you lower the gearbox, loosen the top radiator hose ( there is a little strain on it) You also could take the fan off if you wanted.
2. After lowering the gearbox, but before you take it off the engine, chock the engine in position - the manual says support with jack - as if the engine is at an angle it's heaps easier to reattach. Watch for heater pipes pinching and don't forget to release the breather pipe top clips.
3. Use a six point socket on the nuts of the R380 bellhousing. LR nuts can tend to round off and be a PITA afterthat. I've R & R'd a couple of gearboxes with the 6 point ( mine is a impact socket) and had not worries.

**Disco95** · 5th November 2009, 07:57 PM

I posted this in another thread about 10 minutes ago....

My V8 D1 has done 235 000 (around abouts) I replace the clutch about 50 000 ago. Never had a problem with the fork, but recently snapped the pivot bolt.
As for dropping the box, well, when the clutch went I did it on the lawn of the holiday house (where I now live) It was dificult, as I was a Disco GB virgin. Then My TC crapped itself on my way to work. Dropped that in the driveway at work, too easy.
THEN my clutch pivot bolt sheared, dropped the box in the garage, too easy this time.
Important things to remember when doing this,
1. It's a 2 week job (work , family, study)
2. Drop the TC first. So much easier in 2 x parts
3. Have a good trolley jack on hand as well as your usual bottle jack
4. Don't forget to pull the consol first to get to the top 3 x bellhousing bolts
5. have a good supply of alcohol on hand and a decent selection of music

Almost forgot number 6. remove the mount attached to drivers side of the TC first, it gives you so much more leeway.

I hope that helps someone somewhere.

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