Stereos for D2...Advice and Show em :-)

**rogan** · 15th March 2010, 07:55 AM

My 2cents.

Front speakers:
2 way components in the front (midbass in the doors and tweeters in the A pillars).
These are the most important speakers in the system; so audition as many as possible and pick the ones you like. Take your own music to the shop when auditioning and listen closely to the tweeter for any harshness

Rear speakers:
The least important. Leave the factory ones in there unless they're already knackered.

Headunit:
As above, CDs are pretty dead. Ipod is the way to go for convenience and control from the headunit. There's not a heap of difference in sound quality between brands and pricing is usually dependant on what feature you want. Look for something with 2 pairs of RCA outputs (aka pre-amp outputs): this gives you more options for system expansion should you want to add anything later. Look closely at ipod control, factor in any adapters you'll need into your budget.

Subwoofer:
One of the best bang for $$ improvements. Doesn't have to be ground pouding, it will add the bottom end and fullness that your front and rear speakers can't physically handle. 10" in a sealed enclsoure is a good start point. Sealed boxes are smaller tahn ported or bandpass boxes so they save boot space. They're also the best if you drive on dusty roads. Recomend a 10" single 4ohm (or dual 2ohm wired in series) that will handle 250rms +

Amplifier:
Ignore any power rating that doesn't say RMS. Max power and peak power are marketing hype and should not be trusted. I'd look for a 4channel amp with approx 80rmsx4. This would give you 80rms for each side ion the fronts and bridge the rear channel to run a sub around 300rms.

Capacitors:
There is no need for a capacitor in a car audio system. Do not buy one cos they're a complete waste of money.

Wiring:
Don't skimp on earth wiring. Grounding amplifier to chassis and chassis to battery is hugely important. Welding cable is alot cheaper than specific car audio cable and is as good if not better.

**that_kid** · 15th March 2010, 06:02 PM

i went with a sony USB headunit in mine as i am very anti anything apple! (comes with being in IT) Ipods, well the bigger older ones, dont like a lot of vibration as they have a conventional spinning hard drive.(the same goes for your Hard drive camcorders, stick to flash memory)
For mine i just use a 4gb USB stick ($12) that lives in the car full time. All the browsings done by the headunit. My headunit was only $188 n does all the usual MP3/CD stuff and i am very happy with it plugged into the standard speakers.

Bigger stereo is wayyyyyyy down the list at the moment after everything else.

my 2 bob

**Dan+Z** · 26th March 2010, 03:11 PM

Hay guys,

I know this is kind of an old thread but im looking at upgrading my stereo soon and have been searching around.

i had a pioneer headunit in my old car, which had bluetooth for my phone and an iPod jack, and am looking at getting the same type.

i was reading in this thread that there are headunits that can be programmed to the wheel controls(Very Interested). This is the only thing that has been stopping me from getting a new head unit as i want to be able to use the same controls.

I have been researching and have come across this:

Steering Wheel Audio Control Adapter

i was wondering if anyone has used it and if not wether people think it will work?

Thanks in Advance

Cheers Dan+Z

**rogan** · 28th March 2010, 11:28 AM

I tried using a steering control interface in my Rangie p38 and couldn't get anything to work. Spoke to the local car stereo experts and they couldn't find a suitable adapter. The steering remotes weren't important to me so I didn't pursue it any further. The one I used was an autoleads PC??, can't remember the exact model. I had two different steering wheel flexs and tried both.

**Rudolf** · 28th March 2010, 03:58 PM

In the mag Land Rover Owner International, January 2009, there is a article replacing the std radio.
Head unit, speakers and bit for Defenders/Sreies too.
They used Alpine radios that can be programed to work with the steering controls.

**njz** · 29th March 2010, 12:00 PM

I put an ipod compatible Alpine head unit in my D2a on the weekend.

I got a device called PAC SWI-JACK on ebay which allows you to interface the steering wheel buttons with most recent Alpine (and several other brand) HU's. The instructions made sense and it was reasonably easy to install.

**knp** · 29th March 2010, 03:53 PM

Originally Posted by Rudolf

In the mag Land Rover Owner International, January 2009, there is a article replacing the std radio.

Does anyone have a copy and would it be possible to scan and post the article in the forum please?
Can't seem to find where you can order back issues on the LROI mag website?
Cheers
Peter

**Spenboyd** · 30th March 2010, 12:37 AM

Originally Posted by njz

I put an ipod compatible Alpine head unit in my D2a on the weekend.

I got a device called PAC SWI-JACK on ebay which allows you to interface the steering wheel buttons with most recent Alpine (and several other brand) HU's. The instructions made sense and it was reasonably easy to install.

That sounds very interesting and I have an Eclipse unit in my d2a which appears to be compatible, could be a Eureka moment....does it work well?

**Rudolf** · 30th March 2010, 04:10 AM

Originally Posted by knp

Does anyone have a copy and would it be possible to scan and post the article in the forum please?
Can't seem to find where you can order back issues on the LROI mag website?
Cheers
Peter

Copyright might be a problem though.
Will send the mag a e-mail and ask.

**njz** · 30th March 2010, 12:14 PM

Originally Posted by Spenboyd

That sounds very interesting and I have an Eclipse unit in my d2a which appears to be compatible, could be a Eureka moment....does it work well?

It works very well. You can program the buttons for different functions. I have it setup to go through my station presets instead of scanning up and down like the old factory radio.

Installation involves tapping into 2 wires on the factory radio harness and ignition / ground which can easily be found on the radio harness too.

The only difference is you can't click the buttons as quickly as with the original radio. You have to hold the buttons down slightly longer between presses.

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