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Thread: Vibration @ 100 after centre diff shim change

  1. 26th June 2010, 01:44 PM #11
    catch-22
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    Well, removed the rear shaft and what do you know? Near perfect. Certainly no vibration @ 100 or anywherre for that matter. It has emphasized the play in the front diff though with the backlash increasing enough for me to want to get it fixed. There were no visible issues with the unis but the aligning bearing that goes in the donut has seen better days. Funny thing is the donut is relatively new...

    I'm still not certain that just because it is fine without the rear shaft that the shaft is the real issue. We will see soon...
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  2. 3rd July 2010, 09:57 AM #12
    catch-22
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    Rear shaft is in perfect order. Unis are perfect and it is well within tolerance.

    Mechanic still asked if I wanted to replace unis....amazing. Time to go elsewhere me thinks.

    So it may be an alignment issue when it was put back on. I don't know.

    What else can it be??
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  3. 5th July 2010, 12:36 PM #13
    catch-22
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    After speaking with those who know it can only be two things -

    - the bush in the rear of the rear drive shaft
    - an imbalance in the transfer case possibly due to the two halves of the crown?? (I think thats what he said) wheel put back together with the bolts in the wrong holes.

    So not too long before I drive a smooth car again...
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  4. 8th July 2010, 11:37 AM #14
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    Defender Mike
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    Has this been sorted

    I recently had a similar vibration and was told that it was the front uni joints. I took it to someone else who jumped in and we went for a drive around the block. Came back put her up on the hoist and blow me down one of my very expensive Goodyear 18'' Tyres was no longer round, still had heaps of tread but was out of shape. I have never had a tyre do this before so I didn’t think about it. Later the wheel hub on the same side started to leak grease all over the disk pads and the abs sensor went kaput as well. All from the vibration caused by the bad tyre. Hub $450 abs sensor $350 tyre $350 Labour $ 0. I wish it had been the uni's.

    When diagnosing problems it always pays to start with the most simple explanation and work your way up to the more difficult. Quite often things happen unrelated yet coincidentally at the same time.
    Last edited by Defender Mike; 8th July 2010 at 11:46 AM. Reason: forot this
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  5. 8th July 2010, 11:41 AM #15
    catch-22
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    Thanks Mike.

    I had tyres checked and checked again. I have swapped two fronts then a full rotation. I wish it was a tyre.

    If anyone needs a front prop to test in Sydney, I'm ya man I have my perfect one that I replaced - just in case.
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  6. 8th July 2010, 11:54 AM #16
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    While I was typing

    Hey,

    The TNT man just knocked on my door with a new t/fer case from Triumph Rover Spares in Adelaide. Came with a cdl locking kit and all the gear . I notice there is some bits of brass flakes in the input shaft seal. These will be from the thrust washers same as you just replaced hope I dont get a smilar problem.

    Mike
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  7. 18th November 2010, 07:51 PM #17
    catch-22
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    Well it's been some time but I am sure this is getting worse. Fit new engine mounts today just in case.

    I am probably going to get the transfer case rebuilt and replace the centering bush in the rear of the rear prop-shaft. And check everything over yet again. Will also replace the gearbox mounts as they aren't much.

    But the issue now is, not only is the vibrating heavily at 2300 odd revs in all gears but when accelerating to 100 then backing off, during the coasting, it is vibrating worse. When I spoke with ZF they said that this is more than likely the locking clutch.

    Anyone got any thoughts on this?

    And is it cheaper to buy a replacement box (ZF auto for D2a) or just have the clutch packs fixed?
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