Muchly![]()
OK, I have been reminded of my obligations as a member, and not a vendor. So, Im changing the theme of this post slightly....Now its called:
"HELP ME DESIGN A BATTERY TRAY"
Once I have a good prototype, I "might" make up some more for my friendsIf you would like to be my friend, PM me
Better Pedro?![]()
Muchly![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
...
Last edited by Pedro_The_Swift; 22nd September 2010 at 07:59 AM. Reason: Please READ Hamishes last post---
Dammit i just put a new battery in that takes up all that space!
Thought I would post some pics, and get some "design feedback". Keep in mind this is a prototype. A final version (for my friends, Pedro), would be waterjet cut, and spot welded.
The basic tray will look something like this (except with a few holes in it to access the mounting bolts, and a rubber or plastic mat in the base):
The High Back allows for the ECU to be mounted in a near stock position, mounted on rubber grommets to give some vibration isolation. Something like this:
You can see in both the above shots that the upper two mounting tabs on the ECU protrude above the height of the tray. I have two options: One, make the top of the tray rear wall higher, which MIGHT fit under the bonnet, but clearances would be very tight, or, we make a small modification to the earthing point on the wheel arch in order to lower the ecu. In the first ecu picture above, you can see where the "domed" case of the ecu hits the earth point about where the stock plastic battery case would sit. My plan is to modify this earth point by cutting of a portion of this earth point at the red line below.
![]()
This will leave the earth point with its structural integrity, and allow enough of a seat for the standard battery box to sit on should you ever decide to put it back in. The raw edge in my car at least would be rustproofed/painted.
Anyone put off by having to cut this? Id be happy to help if you are in Melbourne.
The tray would likely be zinc coated only, in an effort to keep the cost down.
We have given up on the idea of putting a second box on the back to drop the ecu into on the basis of difficulty (would need to remove more of the earth point) and cost (just gets more fiddly). Im struggling to meet my afore mentioned target cost as it is.
So, comments on design appreciated.
Looks good Hamish, been looking at reinstalling my dual battery set up as I am not happy with it being in the SLS compressor tray. I wouldn't have any trouble with cutting the earth point as long as it is still rigid.
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
OK, Have finished fabbing up the prototype. Pictures below. First up...any production work will get done by my factory staff. As a welder I make a bloody good company director, so forgive my welding. And i used surplus hardware from other jobs, so bolts, nuts, washers would be specific to this job, not what you see. I have now given it to my designer to work out how to make it more efficient to produce...ie cheaper. Still going, but initial thoughts are as follows. When you look at the pictures below, keep the following in mind. The prototype is one piece. The final model will be in three pieces. The base, and two legs. The two legs will bolt onto the tray. This will save space for shipping, and money. In the photos below, you can see the leg uprights are sq tube. These will be channel. The base will have an rhs "brace" which will bolt to the channel uprights, making it one piece prior to installation. The base will be similar to the pictures, but will be waterjet cut, and pinch welded. Saves labour during assembly. I have also used rivetted straps and webbing as my retaining strap. (except you might see that one is bolted on...thats so I can remove it to paint the prototype later). Its light, more than capable of restraining the batteries during normal use or an accident, and because im using the optimas, cant be damaged by acid. I can do a number of different other methods, like two hooks and a plate like stock, or a bit of rhs coming forward and pulling the batteries back into the tray. Feedback appreciated. These rated straps are cheap at $20, but it does all add up. The rear wall might yet get some final modification to allow for easier running of wires. The final model will also be treated in some way, depending on feedback. Can do zinc, gal, or gal, prime and paint....all with increasing cost. I also didnt meet my budget. If anyone is interested in the financials, pm me. Also like your feedback on the design.
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Just curious Hamish as to why you started this thread off as a Disco2A battery holder.
Are the to D2s version different in this corner????
New :- D3 TDV6 2006 SE
Bullbar, traxide dual battery
General grabber ATs
Mitch hitch
Home made drawer and fridge system
Foldable UHF antenna on roof rail
interrested
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