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Thread: dual battery

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauly85 View Post
    thanks grover, that gives me a rough guide to work with then!

    and thanks again to everyone else who has helped so far!

    my plan at the moment is to fabricate a new battery tray (thanks to CJT's useful post with pics and dimentions of a tray he bought from the states) and fit possibly 2 optima red tops, hopefully they will do the job nicely for my trips!
    You would be better either using 2 yellow tops, or a Redtop for starter and Yellow for you Aux batt.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cosmic Tourist View Post
    You can actually fit a 140 amp hour battery in the standard battery tray.
    I use one like this

    12v 140AH DEEP CYCLE/MARINE/4WD AGM BATTERY 2yr warr. (eBay item 290351422012 end time 12-Jan-11 14:59:13 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

    with 1350 CCA and 140 amp hours.

    If you like I can post some pics, its one solution.
    I would be interested to see if you had a chance to post the pics.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    South East, UK
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    I stuck a 140ah deep cycle in a sealed battery box where a rear bin should go (i "binned" both)...bolted it down & linked it to the Optima red under the bonnet with a National Luna monitor & Tmax split system...works great

  4. #24
    BHJ Guest

    Dual Battery for TD5

    I was about to fabricate my own battery try for the TD5 when I saw an ARB model.. After purchasing and fitting the ARB I found it saved a great deal of time, fitted perfectly with with very few hassles. It fits against the firewall on the passengers side of the vehicle. I have fitted a Deep Cycle-King EB50 battery and run an engel, lights, and HF radio and have found no problems. This was an easy and worthwhile alternative to stuffing around trying to design and fabricate my own battery holder.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Currumbin Qld
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    I put a dual battery system in the boot of mine to run a waeco fridge. Ran a cable to the starter battery, both batteries are full 12inch deep cycle. Took away part of the bucket panel in the boot & hid cables & fuses in the hollow around the seat belt winder

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mount Eliza
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    Other option

    I have been doing some research (remember though that I am no electro/auto whizz kid)

    And I have found these battery isolators/relays which seem well priced and look really robust

    [ame="http://www.amazon.com/PAC-PAC200-Battery-Isolator-Relay/dp/B000CEBXRS/ref=pd_sbs_auto_13"]Amazon.com: PAC PAC200 Battery Isolator, 200 Amp Relay: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wfidZt3iL.@@AMEPARAM@@41wfidZt3iL[/ame]

    The plan is to fit an Orbital battery in the right rear bin, and then replace the side cover of the bin with heavy duty hinged marine ply, mounted on to the inside of this will be a 12v/220v inverter so that on the outside of the ply, I will have the following

    1. 1 * 220v standard plug (for laptops etc)
    2. 2-3 * cigarette lighter plugs
    3. 1 * other plug not sure whether Anderson or something else

    So what I will end up with in the rear bin, is a Dual Battery and full Power board set up using the Isolator above

    As the project kicks of I will load photo's

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    KINROSS WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by grover7488 View Post
    they are in the same location regardless of engine.

    I removed my ARB from my TD5 and then installed it in my V8
    My mistake, was following another thread but looks like a misinterpretation on my part.
    Cheers,
    Peter.

  8. #28
    Sharkee Guest
    My set up in the rear right seat well has a fullriver 120a/h battery with my mobitronic for the fridge, extra sockets and will eventually my invertor will go in there too. I made a bracket that bolts to the seat mount and so far seems ok. I cant seem to load the photo so here is the link if ya interested.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...xe-holder.html

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb, AU
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    I used the BEP marine battery isolator, which is a heavy duty marine automatic unit, fully waterproof. This can be coupled to a heavy duty BEP switch to jump start the car if you have to - would be difficult with jumper leads if battery is in the cargo bin. Similar price to dedicated 4wd units which are not designed to big marine diesels etc. Is under $200 for a switch and isolator unit, check whitworths, BLA etc.
    My ARB tray has worked well for the last 5 years.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    I've ordered one of these for ours. $210 landed from UK (Made by Durite)



    Electronically switched double pole battery isolator.
    Phenolic moulding with 'sheffield plate' contacts and studs.
    Includes terminal covers (not shown in photo).
    Normally open contacts. 10mm studs for main connections.

    Operating it with a Defender heated seat switch which fits the d2 switch panel (where the hdc switch etc is)

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