I stuck a 140ah deep cycle in a sealed battery box where a rear bin should go (i "binned" both)...bolted it down & linked it to the Optima red under the bonnet with a National Luna monitor & Tmax split system...works great
I was about to fabricate my own battery try for the TD5 when I saw an ARB model.. After purchasing and fitting the ARB I found it saved a great deal of time, fitted perfectly with with very few hassles. It fits against the firewall on the passengers side of the vehicle. I have fitted a Deep Cycle-King EB50 battery and run an engel, lights, and HF radio and have found no problems. This was an easy and worthwhile alternative to stuffing around trying to design and fabricate my own battery holder.
I put a dual battery system in the boot of mine to run a waeco fridge. Ran a cable to the starter battery, both batteries are full 12inch deep cycle. Took away part of the bucket panel in the boot & hid cables & fuses in the hollow around the seat belt winder![]()
I have been doing some research (remember though that I am no electro/auto whizz kid)
And I have found these battery isolators/relays which seem well priced and look really robust
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/PAC-PAC200-Battery-Isolator-Relay/dp/B000CEBXRS/ref=pd_sbs_auto_13"]Amazon.com: PAC PAC200 Battery Isolator, 200 Amp Relay: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wfidZt3iL.@@AMEPARAM@@41wfidZt3iL[/ame]
The plan is to fit an Orbital battery in the right rear bin, and then replace the side cover of the bin with heavy duty hinged marine ply, mounted on to the inside of this will be a 12v/220v inverter so that on the outside of the ply, I will have the following
- 1 * 220v standard plug (for laptops etc)
- 2-3 * cigarette lighter plugs
- 1 * other plug not sure whether Anderson or something else
So what I will end up with in the rear bin, is a Dual Battery and full Power board set up using the Isolator above
As the project kicks of I will load photo's
My set up in the rear right seat well has a fullriver 120a/h battery with my mobitronic for the fridge, extra sockets and will eventually my invertor will go in there too. I made a bracket that bolts to the seat mount and so far seems ok. I cant seem to load the photo so here is the link if ya interested.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...xe-holder.html
I used the BEP marine battery isolator, which is a heavy duty marine automatic unit, fully waterproof. This can be coupled to a heavy duty BEP switch to jump start the car if you have to - would be difficult with jumper leads if battery is in the cargo bin. Similar price to dedicated 4wd units which are not designed to big marine diesels etc. Is under $200 for a switch and isolator unit, check whitworths, BLA etc.
My ARB tray has worked well for the last 5 years.
I've ordered one of these for ours. $210 landed from UK (Made by Durite)
Electronically switched double pole battery isolator.
Phenolic moulding with 'sheffield plate' contacts and studs.
Includes terminal covers (not shown in photo).
Normally open contacts. 10mm studs for main connections.
Operating it with a Defender heated seat switch which fits the d2 switch panel (where the hdc switch etc is)
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