Thread: Aftermarket Windows for 02D2

Originally Posted by landyprincess

I'm not wanting to spend that much money at all given whats already been spent on seats for the 3rd row area and work that needs to be done engine wise)...

Hey LP, morning to you too.

A couple of options I can think of in reference to the windows being able to open at the cheapest price:

1. Pop out the existing windows and have hinges, plus a locking handle added to it. Drilling holes in the glass and adding those components isn't too tricky. However, attaching those hinges and locking mechanism to the fram of the car is a bit more complicated and will end up costing as much as getting a sunroof installed.

2. Pop out the existing windows, fill the window surround with a sill and runners for placement of sliding half glass, get new tempered glass cut to fit.
Again, I believe that this would be a costly exercise due to the one off manufacturing involved.

Not to discourage you from doing it, but I think it's very telling as to why nobody has done it before. It may be a safety requirement built into the design of the car that does not allow for the rear windows to open.

I'd be sticking with the idea of using electric fans until you've got the funds to install a sunroof or air con.

EDIT...
As to the 12v and 15amp question...

12V is the voltage that your battery puts out for accessories, such as your radio, cigarette lighter and the aux socket. The amps is the current draw from the device... In short, you won't drain the battery when your driving around with the fan on.

Originally Posted by Sully

Not to discourage you from doing it, but I think it's very telling as to why nobody has done it before. It may be a safety requirement built into the design of the car that does not allow for the rear windows to open.

Thanks for the reply Sully, no discouragement on my part, i'm a stickler for my research and if it can help anyone else along the way, just as you are helping me out too....it's all good :-)

As for the safety requirement, I think its more a design / option flaw or lack there of. I know we are not talking about vans, but IMO i'd think they'd be alot more 'structurally' unsound than a landrover yet have windows such as what I am after available as aftermarket products. Probably comes more down to demand - it's probably just not there.

Originally Posted by Sully

As to the 12v and 15amp question...

12V is the voltage that your battery puts out for accessories, such as your radio, cigarette lighter and the aux socket. The amps is the current draw from the device... In short, you won't drain the battery when your driving around with the fan on.

Now I am intrigued with this one... If the airconditioner, dvd head rests, radio and rear fan is going .... how does one work out the drain on the battery?

How many ON devices while the car is running can one run ? Is there a 'rule-of-thumb" out there or some 'technical' literature that you (or others) know of.... ?? Not sure if there's a black science to it all???

Maybe a better question to ask - at what point do people put in a dual battery?

Thanks,
Lp

You might find that opening windows in the rear 1/4 are illegal.

There's a limit how far back an opening window can be - something like 300mm (don't quote me on 300mm being exact though) from the exhaust.

Re the structural integrity, the disco windows are glued in and are a part of the frame structure. Just as the windscreen is now. In a caravan the windows have an external frame and so this provides structural support when they are open.

Also as above the exhaust must be at least x mm behind the most rearward opening on the vehicle, which is why you don't see many side exiting exhausts.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Also as above the exhaust must be at least x mm behind the most rearward opening on the vehicle, which is why you don't see many side exiting exhausts.

Thx for the replies much appreciated - that does make sense. I am aware of the exhaust requirement in VIC ....

I should post a photo of hubbys exhausts on his FJ40 - completely illegal but nice pipe work !!!

Cheers,
Lp

edit - exhaust pic u/l - side exiting 15 degree angle :-) !!

Originally Posted by landyprincess

Now I am intrigued with this one... If the airconditioner, dvd head rests, radio and rear fan is going .... how does one work out the drain on the battery?

How many ON devices while the car is running can one run ? Is there a 'rule-of-thumb" out there or some 'technical' literature that you (or others) know of.... ?? Not sure if there's a black science to it all???

Maybe a better question to ask - at what point do people put in a dual battery?

Thanks,
Lp

The devices in your car, radio, aircon, DVD, lights, potential fan in the back, all run from the alternator, not the battery.

From memory, the alterator puts out 130amps at idle and a max of 220 amps when running at speed.

You'll start to see the alternator struggling if you're running high powered extras constantly. Things like high powered stereo amplifiers, car fridges e.t.c.
You can often tell if an alternator is struggling at night time when there is excessive power drain by looking at the headlights of the car. If they grow brighter when the revs increase, or pulse with the beat of the stereo.

The factory alternator will handle running the aircon, stereo e.t.c. without any problems at all, so the addition of either a fan, or an aircon in the back won't cause any over the top drain which would cause the extra power required to come from the battery.

You would consider getting an extra battery for a couple of reasons. One being as an extra battery for jump starting (in the instance of your primary battery failing), another being for running aux items such as a winch, camping fridges/lights e.t.c so as to not cause drain on your primary battery which is used for starting the car.

Originally Posted by Sully

The devices in your car, radio, aircon, DVD, lights, potential fan in the back, all run from the alternator, not the battery.

You would consider getting an extra battery for a couple of reasons. One being as an extra battery for jump starting (in the instance of your primary battery failing), another being for running aux items such as a winch, camping fridges/lights e.t.c so as to not cause drain on your primary battery which is used for starting the car.

Thanks for the reply - i've learnt something new!!

The generator does a more than good enough job and a gas fridge & hubby has the winch so not a biggie about the dual battery - one less thing to not have to look into LOL :-)

Cheers,
Lp



note - URL to my research as posted in market place alerts, if I am not allowed to put the link in here admins, pls remove. thx

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/marketplac...ml#post1413942

Originally Posted by Scouse

You might find that opening windows in the rear 1/4 are illegal.

There's a limit how far back an opening window can be - something like 300mm (don't quote me on 300mm being exact though) from the exhaust.

So how does a stock Defender qualify then? I assume the measurement is from the fore-most point of the fixed glass of the window.

Currently too lazy to go down and measure them at Derek's.