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Thread: TD5 Starter rebuild

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Hobart, TAS
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    In my humble opinion you are better off Taking the starter off the vehicle. This allows you to inspect and cleaner the plunger housing.

    You just have to hold your tongue the right way to get the top bolt loosened. Try using some different combo's of sockets/extensions etc. A good solid piece of hose around a swivel can help out.

    Good luck.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Doreen, Melbourne
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    I'm attempting to take it of the car now. Also have trouble with the top nut. Do you attempt from top down or from under car?

    Thanks,
    '01 D2 V8 4.6 Auto 7 Seater ACE
    Town Car - '11 Ford Mondeo Titanium TDCi -
    LROCV Member

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Doreen, Melbourne
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    Sad to reply to ones own post but anyway...
    Its finally off, tackled from under the Disco using 15mm socket and 6" extension and rachet - all 1/2". The nut wouldn't crack so the whole bolt (stud) came out instead.
    '01 D2 V8 4.6 Auto 7 Seater ACE
    Town Car - '11 Ford Mondeo Titanium TDCi -
    LROCV Member

  4. #14
    mattg Guest
    I have tried the from the top and the bottom. I think from under is the go. what brand socket did you use to get a 1/2 inch on? I can only get a 3/8 drive onto it. I cant get enough leverage on it to get it off.
    Cheers

    Matt

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Doreen, Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattg View Post
    I have tried the from the top and the bottom. I think from under is the go. what brand socket did you use to get a 1/2 inch on? I can only get a 3/8 drive onto it. I cant get enough leverage on it to get it off.
    Cheers Matt
    Hi Matt,

    I have this set Bahco 94pce Socket & Mechanical Set. #S87+7 , the best tools I've bought and can't believe I struggled with crap for so long prior. Bahco 94pc set. Its a commone set, about three of my friends have bought this set after borrowing mine.

    Lying under the car with my head facing the front of the disco, I would put the socket on the 6" bar and sit on nut, give it a little tap to ensure it was on. Once on, it didn't fall off easily. I would then reach up and attach the 1/2 rachet. I could only ratchet about two clicks at a time but persistence pays off. As mentioned above the whole stud came out so when reinstalling I used Loctite, put the stud back in place then reinstalled starter and put nut back on. To put back on I reached up from the left side of the starter and over the top - I could only get the tips of my fingers on it but was enough to start it.

    I attempted to torque the bolts properly but the head of the big 1/2 wrench was too big. I have the mechanical apptitude of a nat so quietly happy I saved myself $700+ (stealer quote to supply and fit a new starter) and fixed it for about $10.

    Being a typical LR though and if its not one thing its another, my ignition barrel pretty much collapsed today and is holding my key captive. Its been on the way out for over a year and I don't think there is a cheap fix (been using graphite for a while) so will have to be a dealer/locksmith repair.

    Peter
    Last edited by Signal1; 27th September 2011 at 07:46 PM. Reason: Clarification
    '01 D2 V8 4.6 Auto 7 Seater ACE
    Town Car - '11 Ford Mondeo Titanium TDCi -
    LROCV Member

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
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    i got it off easy enough once i read here the top nut was 15mm

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ballarat
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    Thanks Matt just done the job without any trouble after reading your post first. Even replaced the stud in the top after finding the last person to work on it had failed to put it back. Great post thanks a lot.
    Dave.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    Has anyone achieved the same for a V8 or are the parts the same?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by mturri View Post
    Rebuilding the starter motor is no big thing, getting the starter in & out is a pig though. Make sure you have a good supply of 3/8” wobble extensions, unijoints, flexjoints, etc.
    Thanks Matt!!!

    I studied this over and over and went out and bought the 3/8" socket/driver set and managed to pull off the starter motor, replace the contacts and plunger and put it all back together. Engine fired up first go.

    I agree with everything here. That top nut is a nightmare, but you can get it off and it does go back on.

    Thanks again for taking the time to document this. This is my first ever attempt at anything significantly mechanical and I pulled it off.

    My D2 is now sitting in my driveway, not my mates where it had come to a complete stop.

  10. #20
    mattg Guest
    I didn't put the nut back on and the stud had vibrated out and is gone. I ended up replacing the stud and one other bolt with a cap head bolt so an 8mm hex does the job a lot easier then the nut.
    Mattg

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