Thread: 3 Amigos - Symptoms and Remedy

another cause can be the hub.Nanocom may throw up a sensor error code,but if replacing it does`nt solve the problem could be the hub,especially with a few Ks aboard.
The hub may seem O.K. but even a slight runout may send false signals to the sensor.
Not cheap but solved my issue.Probably after 240Ks good to replace it anyway.

Trev.

Originally Posted by OffTrack

The main reason for option a & b is to repair or bypass a broken solder joint inside the modulator block.

The yellow/green wire on the main harness is the Shuttle Valve Switch line back to the SLABS ECU - doing Option B will not fix a dodgy connection at this point.

cheers
Paul

option b bypasses the dry solder joint issue and the connector block on the end of the loom, don't know how you did option b, but when i did it. i bypassed that connection block altogether.

my opinion, most of the people that change shuttle valve switches, and or reseat wiring plug blocks and that " fixes the problem " is really only masking the fact that the external junction block and internal connection block are flakey. change the shuttle valve switches and you are bound to move those other connections and magically fix the problem only to reappear 12 months down the track.
option b bypass both those altogether, end of story.

Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

option b bypasses the dry solder joint issue and the connector block on the end of the loom, don't know how you did option b, but when i did it. i bypassed that connection block altogether.

my opinion, most of the people that change shuttle valve switches, and or reseat wiring plug blocks and that " fixes the problem " is really only masking the fact that the external junction block and internal connection block are flakey. change the shuttle valve switches and you are bound to move those other connections and magically fix the problem only to reappear 12 months down the track.
option b bypass both those altogether, end of story.

My bad, checked back and it does indeed bypass that connector on y/g, although I'm not sure that the main harness is actually a known issue - the common issue is a dodgy earth point behind the headlight.

I haven't, and wouldn't do Option-B. My position on it is clearly stated earlier in the thread, and I don't intend revisiting.

I'd observe that Option B is no guarantee that you'll solve the 3 Amigo's even if you are getting the "correct" fault code. One forum member I know had them revisit twice after doing Option B - in the end the actual problem was leaking seals killing the SVS. The first SVS switch lasted about 12 months, the second switch lasted under 6 months.

Originally Posted by OffTrack

My bad, checked back and it does indeed bypass that connector on y/g, although I'm not sure that the main harness is actually a known issue - the common issue is a dodgy earth point behind the headlight.

I haven't, and wouldn't do Option-B. My position on it is clearly stated earlier in the thread, and I don't intend revisiting.

I'd observe that Option B is no guarantee that you'll solve the 3 Amigo's even if you are getting the "correct" fault code. One forum member I know had them revisit twice after doing Option B - in the end the actual problem was leaking seals killing the SVS. The first SVS switch lasted about 12 months, the second switch lasted under 6 months.

I would have thought leaking seals that are causing svs to fail would be quite obvious when the svs was taken off as there would be brake fluid where there should be no brake fluid. that seems like a simple missed opportunity to fix the problem at the first repair and save a lot of time and heartache.

no doubt there is no definitive single fix for the 3 amigos. it is a very complex system and there are quite a few areas that can cause issues.
anything from the svs, the internal connection block, the wheel hubs, the hub speed senders etc etc. i would imagine we have yet to see any issues relating to the computer. i am actually surprised at that.
even a bad set of pads can send off errors.
option b is simply 1 step in bypassing a known issue. It has fixed both my D2's for at least 12 months on 1 and 2 years on the other. recently they revisited on my daily driver, nanocom has thrown up a wheel speed sensor error. that's next step for me.

Said seals and circlips, purchased from Falcon works in the USA.

uploadfromtaptalk1348398706386.jpg

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Did this with mine with the SVS. They state once these "updated" seals are installed there's no need to ever do it again.
I didn't however install the double e clips, seemed a little snug to me.


Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

DOUBLE...?! I tbough they just threw in a couple extra. I only took one off each stem so figured thats what is supposed to go back on.

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This could have been a very informative thread and was started with good intentions.
Now peple have to read through the "here we go again" posts to find the information.
By posting these coments it's made it harder for folk to search for solutions only leading to more new posts your discouraging

To make it easy(for those who don't know our jargin)...
If you have the 3 lads on get someone to hook up a diagnostic tool.
Work with the results, as stated it could be any one many faults.

If it shows shuttle valve you'll have remove and test the two shutle switchs.
If there is fluid present on the switchs get the seals done.
If the switchs test OK refit and look at the mentioned earth behind the headlamp.
Also check the conectors are tight in the plugs.
If the lads reapear then do option A for a neat finish or option B for a more obvious repair.

I've had the lads once and it was faulty shuttle switchs.
I have looked at various rigs for folk and have seen mostly wheel sensor faults.
One was a broken wire, some dirty conections.
Havn't had a loose hub yet but one had leaves in the pick up point.