Thread: 3 Amigos - Symptoms and Remedy

Love these types of discussions!!!

Quote: "This option ( is my favorite. It allows one to fix their SVS fault the fastest and is a more permanent repair compared to OPTION A." Land Rover club VI.

Quote:

Option A: This is the popular Hummer fix as written out by a Hummer enthusiast where you repair a faulty solder at the pins of the SVS circuit board.

Option B: This is the bypassing of the SVS circuit board and straight wiring into the external connector on the outside of the modulator. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS!
(I messed up the circuit board while cutting off the hard black plastic following option A resulting in the discovery of option B. Consider this method over OPTION A.)
Land Rover club VI.


As per most of the sites with instructions, option B bypasses the PCB and edge connectors inside the ABS modulator, which is where some of the faults are occurring (sometimes it is the SVS as per other posts - the Falcon kit is the bees knees as a replacement). Option A is repairing the issue but requires more dismantling, which can be argued is better than bypassing it, as it is hidden from view.

There is already a (potential) earth problem, as per LR technical bulletin. So, adding an additional earth or alternate earth is addressing something LR reckons happens anyway.

I've repaired quite a few components on vehicles where the mechanicals are fine but a PCB track or solder has failed, due to poor quality soldering or fatigue due to cycling of the joint whilst in use (or one leading to the other!). Some were also due to too much current draw, causing a high resistance joint / open circuit, due to poor design. There's a whole industry in this with high value items - ECUs etc.

There is of course also option C wherein the pins and sockets are removed and subsequently hard wired with sufficient wire to allow the switch to be extracted and wire extracted from the recess and cut should the need arise.
This is really only an option where the tracks are beyond repair on option A.

As for the insurance angle of B, unless the modification is implemented by the vehicle or OEM manufacturer, the modification is not considered an authorised repair as such, not compliant with standards under which the parts are made.
Being part of the braking system, a big void on your insurance.


Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

As for the insurance angle of B, unless the modification is implemented by the vehicle or OEM manufacturer, the modification is not considered an authorised repair as such, not compliant with standards under which the parts are made.
Being part of the braking system, a big void on your insurance.

Is Option A or C not in the same boat as B? Are you saying A & C are a modifications implemented by the vehicle or OEM manufacturer?

I think we have a case of chicken little.

My very recent experiences are telling me something totally different to what you are laying down.

Regards
Andrew

What is the point of these ongoing posts about Amigo repair options?

The repair has no bearing on the mechanical/hydraulic function on the car. A point which has been raised so many times....
Factual statement from NT MVR and TIO insurance.
It is a repair not a modification.
If you do it right it is permananent. It is only a band aid if you did it wrong (like every other repair on a car a muppet shouldnt be touching)

You dont like option B.......so dont do it.
You like Option A better......then do that.
You dont like either option.....then buy a new modulator and stop carrying on like a kid who wants an ice cream.

As before...sick of seeing the same old information rehashed again and again.

Just fix it!

Originally Posted by strangy

What is the point of these ongoing posts about Amigo repair options?

Pretty much the reason I haven't been on here much lately as there's too many cooks and no broth and the home bakes aparently know more than the chefs...


Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

Originally Posted by OffTrack

Option B can be detected VISUALLY.



It's a big, ugly band-aid, not a repair. I reckon that is going to be an excellent indicator of vehicles that have had short cuts taken with their maintenance for future D2 buyers.

Option B cuts existing wiring, adds in external wiring, bypasses internal connection, adds a number of extra solder joins in wiring, plus crimp fittings. As the Option B tutorial indicates the extra ground wire is itself a point of failure.

Option A fixes the cause of the problem, -one possibly two cracked solder joins - and doesn't alter the modulator in any, functional or visible way.

Option A FTW.

Oh no and when it all goes wrong you get the 3 Amigos you dont necesarily go crashing to the bottom of the Canyon in a large fireball.
This is a common repair on both Hummers and Land Rovers yes it has some external wiring but it will likely prove to be more reliable than the poorly designed internal connections.
You can replace the Solenoid Block and Shuttle Valves for about $800 only for it to happen again.

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Pretty much the reason I haven't been on here much lately as there's too many cooks and no broth and the home bakes aparently know more than the chefs...

Love the cross reference to Masterchef ....

The same topics are rehashed a lot, when newer forum members come on (I include myself in this).

Perhaps a wiki is required on some of the common topics, or some way to get people to search through old threads first?

Originally Posted by djam1

Oh no and when it all goes wrong you get the 3 Amigos you dont necesarily go crashing to the bottom of the Canyon in a large fireball.
This is a common repair on both Hummers and Land Rovers yes it has some external wiring but it will likely prove to be more reliable than the poorly designed internal connections.
You can replace the Solenoid Block and Shuttle Valves for about $800 only for it to happen again.

I have never made any comment about the effectiveness of option b, just about it's lack of elegance as a fiix. It's an ugly hack regardless of how many hummer drivers have done it.

FWIW There is replacement modulator module available with redesigned PCB which claims to addresses the cracking issue for under $500.