Thread: Td5 engine mounts - replacement

The only thing you need to take off on the right side is the fuel cooler and then only the 4 bolts securing it on and not the coolant hoses. To make this job easy, the tool you need is a long at least 500mm 1/2 inch drive extension and a 1/2 drive universal, this will allow you to undo all 6 engine mount nuts from the top. No need to take the turbo off on the left side because the extension slides through the gap btw the turbo oil pipe and the turbo in a straight line to the nut on top of the left side mount. Doing it like that means all the initial loosening and the final tightening is done while your standing up beside the car. I guess it may be easier to take the exhaust off at the flex, but I didn't need to. When you manoeuvre the new mounts in and lower the engine down with the bolts in place it's then just a matter of starting the nuts from underneath till firm, jamming a ring spanner in the right place and then working from the top again to get them tight. I used a long handle 1/2 drive ratchet (Koken brand). Do the right hand side (Fuel cooler side) first. At least an hour and a half on each side although, I had a weeks break btw each side.

BIG O
03 D2 TD5 AUTO
99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)

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Originally Posted by beanie_205

Are you sure you need to change both sides? I had to change my rhs mount after vibration started- the lhs I left as is and no vibration after changing the rhs only. I think the torque action of the engine compresses the rhs more than the left, making it prone to fail earlier, especially if it has towed as mine had. I paid 150 online plus post, maybe 170 all up. Trolley jack and a chunk of wood makes it relatively easy, hardest part is getting the fuel cooler bolts out and back in.

The car has 270,000 km on it so I figure if I'm going to do one side, I'll do both and never have to do it again
Everyone I've spoken to has recommended doing both sides together as well.