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Thread: Changing the ignition barrel

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Question Changing the ignition barrel

    Whats the process to remove the ignition barrel and fit a new one? Remove the plastic steering colum (what holds this in place?, then how do you remove the sheer head bolts (when you refit do you use sheer head bolts or normal?)?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Remove the plastic steering colum (what holds this in place?
    Pretty sure this is just a couple of screws on the underside and it comes off very easy. Removed it when removing the dash/instrument moulding.

    Regards
    Andrew

  3. #3
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    Tilt column down to lowest, use a very sharp small thin cold chisel OR pin punch to drift the shearbolt 'cone' undone. They aren't all that tight, and as soon as one is loose the other will be.

    Refit using socket head cap screws, (allen head bolts) the thread is M8 IIRC

    JC

  4. #4
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    There is a great tutorial about the process in projects and tutorials

    use a D1 barrel and get it keyed to your current key.

    way cheaper, and get a OEM barrel as the cheapies are not of the same quality and tolerances to ensure your old keys will function.

    ask me how i know that!

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    No real problems to remove the barrel using the notes above.
    I recently had problems with my D2a lock jamming, I spoke to a locksmith, he could repair the lock but couldn't do it then and I couldn't wait.
    Why not do it myself, actually with care it isn't difficult.
    The only real issue is removing the locking pin that holds the barrel in place. The pin is hard steel held in place by crimping the aluminium around the pin. The only way I found to remove it was digging it out using an engraving bit in a Dremel. The lock then easily slides apart, the individual wafers can be freed using needle nose pliers. I actually left one out that I wasn't happy with.
    I made a new pin from a 8mm bolt taping the body to 8mm and lathing the end to match the original pin. This was then held in with loctite.
    With care, a clean table, some time, the job isn't that difficult. The lock has never felt better.
    My problem was with the wafers jamming, some were very hard to remove, if some were worn I would have just left them out.

  7. #7
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    Thanks, I have removed the old one now and the new barrell is at the lock smith.

    Will the D1 barrel still have the red illumination ring too?

  8. #8
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    Yep all goes back together same as the old.

  9. #9
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    All done. The guy at the locksmith reckons next time not to buy a replacement. He reckons he can just fix the old one for the same price as it costs to have a new one redone to suit the old key.

  10. #10
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    But will his repair job last long?

    My repair of the original (by specialists Bensons here in sydney) lasted about 18 months. Once the wafers inside and their "sleeves" have been worn enough to cause a problem it doesn't take long to play up again.

    Locksmith said as much when he got me going roadside after the first failure.

    he was right of course.

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