We had one the same. Had to put the old one back in, while we waited for a replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by fred06
The new one is working perfectly.
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We had one the same. Had to put the old one back in, while we waited for a replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by fred06
The new one is working perfectly.
Hi I had someone place water into my tank accidently after draining fuel tank and taking filters off flushing fuel rails and putting new fuel in my discovery94 year turns over but only pops .there is spark to leads .thanks rdk35
Trouvé quelques infos sur des régulateurs de pression BOSCH Sport --> ICI
Et plus particulièrement le "FPR Mini 38" ref 0 280 160 616 qui est intéressant Voir la Doc complète en .pdf
Caractéristiques en bref :
Pressure range 3.8 bar -> peut-être un peu faible
Reflow quantity 15 to 220 l/h -> la pompe aurait un débit de 180 l/h donc OK
Fuel compatibility Gasoline, E10 -> tout bon
Operating temperature -40 to 120°C -> tout bon
... mais seulement 3,8 Bar, est-ce quffisant pour le TD5 ? !!!
J'espère que le BOSCH 0 280 160 575 (4 bar) à les même caractéristiques et c'est TOUT BON !!!
what Fred just said =
Found some info on pressure regulators BOSCH Sport -> HERE
And more particularly the "RPF Mini 38" ref 0280160616 Interestingly See full Doc. Pdf
Features at a glance:
Ranks Pressure 3.8 bar -> maybe a little weak
Reflow quantity 15 to 220 l / h -> pump has a flow rate of 180 l / h then OK
Gasoline Fuel compatibility, E10 -> any good
Operating temperature -40 to 120 ° C -> all good
... but only 3.8 bar, is it sufficient for TD5? !
I hope that the BOSCH 0280160575 (4 bar) to the same features and it's ALL GOOD!
mate , wrong section you have V8 not Td5Quote:
Originally Posted by rdk35
Some times more than twice and will keep trying more. Don't you think we have tried to source a replacement regulator units alone ourselves to sell. The back ground of some of the ebay specials is suspect. Couldn't be bothered with the customer complaints so leave well enough alone.:pQuote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
The eBay ones are definitely questionable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares
The Bosch units work fine, in fact I'm seeing very positive performance from a couple I have fitted ( still going strong and no leaks )
Hello,
Inside a MSA100000 (Left) and "UnBranded" (Right)
Cutting with a mini disc (Dremel style) at the periphery of the capsules at the crimp.
I lost the spring of MSA but it seemed good workmanship
Attachment 56259
Attachment 56260
The metal is thicker on the MSA (I had a little trouble cutting it), the membrane is also thicker, there is a seal on the valve which has a guide pin and a centering (both bear traces of wear on their area of friction).
On "Unbranded", the membrane is much thinner, but there are two of each other, they are also more flexible than the MSA (but this one at 110,000 km, almost 10 years and few leaked only!)
No seal on the valve "Unbranded" or guide, but a sort of hinged steel ball to be well applied to the outlet, the spring is not machined ends and supports through.
Attachment 56261
The capsule "Unbranded" has therefore those two membranes BUT it is too strong tight crimp on a surface abrasive part, they are cut, resulting in a sudden leak VERY important!
Regards
Fred
did my regulator recently and found after unit was removed and new kit fitted to original body it was easier to remove the pipes fit body to engine then refit the pipes took 30mins total so easy.:D
Yeah, just got me too. Car was in the doctor's to fix a leak in the area of the fuel tank. Just a hose leaking, but hard to get at as the tank had to be removed.
When they started it up, they noticed a dribble from the FPR. "sure," I said, "go ahead and replace it". Whole job cost me a little over a grand.
Sob.
This is more to do with prevention than cure, but I was having a look around under the D2 and noticed the mounting bracket for the coolant rail was pressed up against the edge of the pressure regulator canister. You should be able to see the back of the regulator by looking up beside the bell housing - it does require getting down under the car.
A number of the pics I've seen of failed regulators show wear in this point. It's a bit difficult to get into but if you are careful it is possible to gently lever the coolant rail next to the bracket so the bracket bends slightly. I've now got about 5mm space between the rail and the pressure regulator canister which should remove rubbing as a potential source of failure.
cheers
Paul
