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Thread: Oil for a TD5

  1. #21
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    And for those that think a 15W-40 is a heavier/thicker oil than a 0 or 5w-40, please think again.

    At operating temps their kinematic (measured) viscosities are the same.

    Depending on the blend, above 5-10*C, their start up viscosities are similar. (I've seen a 15W-40 be thinner at 0*C than a 5W-40 )

    At temps below -10*C, no contest, the 5W-40 oil will be much easier to pump than the 15W-40, but after a short warmup period there'll be bugger all in it.

    In engines such as the Isuzu 4JX1 oil viscosity is critical as the injectors use engine oil to generate hydraulic pressure to generate injection pressure.
    Use the wrong viscosity oil at your peril in these type of engines.

    In a TD5 with (mechanical) unit injectors, oil viscosity is much less critical, so I'd go for the one with the most robust additive package, ie a heavy duty diesel oil, not a car spec, dual rated oil.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    penrite put out a technical note with a warning about that oil.
    i thought it said be careful about non efficient cars

    but i cant find the article now.
    You may be referring to this in the Penrite FAQ:

    Why can’t we use the new Enviro+ oils in place of the existing HPR range?

    Enviro+ oils are low in SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur), which in turn is low in zinc (zinc is a part of the same compound as phosphorus). Zinc is a very effective anti-wear agent and if it is reduced, may cause premature wear in the engine, especially if they use flat tappet cams. So, an Enviro Plus oil should not be used unless it is recommended for the application.


    And here was Ricks comment about this issue:
    Oils - can we set up a definitive list

    I've been buying Penrite Diesel SP (now re-named Enviro + 10W-40 which is an E4/E6/E9 oil, ie. a heavy duty diesel oil, not petrol/dual rated and I hope to God it's still as robust as Diesel SP otherwise I'll have to find a new oil) for $165 which is a walk in off the street price.

    I'd trust a low SAPS API CJ-4/ACEA E4/E6/E9 oil in a TD5 as they have balanced the lack of phosphorous/zinc with better/more exxy anti-wear/EP chemistrickery, but I wouldn't use a low SAPS petrol oil like that Peak oil with a unit injector engine.
    There's been a few cam issues over the years with low EP oils like the ILSAC GF-4 10W-30 Mobil 1

    Anyway that's why I'm comfortable in using 10w40 Enviro+ in my TD5.

    Cheers
    Simon
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    You may be referring to this in the Penrite FAQ:

    Why can’t we use the new Enviro+ oils in place of the existing HPR range?

    Enviro+ oils are low in SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur), which in turn is low in zinc (zinc is a part of the same compound as phosphorus). Zinc is a very effective anti-wear agent and if it is reduced, may cause premature wear in the engine, especially if they use flat tappet cams. So, an Enviro Plus oil should not be used unless it is recommended for the application.


    And here was Ricks comment about this issue:
    Oils - can we set up a definitive list

    I've been buying Penrite Diesel SP (now re-named Enviro + 10W-40 which is an E4/E6/E9 oil, ie. a heavy duty diesel oil, not petrol/dual rated and I hope to God it's still as robust as Diesel SP otherwise I'll have to find a new oil) for $165 which is a walk in off the street price.

    I'd trust a low SAPS API CJ-4/ACEA E4/E6/E9 oil in a TD5 as they have balanced the lack of phosphorous/zinc with better/more exxy anti-wear/EP chemistrickery, but I wouldn't use a low SAPS petrol oil like that Peak oil with a unit injector engine.
    There's been a few cam issues over the years with low EP oils like the ILSAC GF-4 10W-30 Mobil 1

    Anyway that's why I'm comfortable in using 10w40 Enviro+ in my TD5.

    Cheers
    Simon
    And further to that, the TD42T uses flat tappets, not rollers on the rockers as a TD5 injector has or roller lifters like a Tdi and I've never had to adjust the tappets since using that oil over the last four years and that car has done at least 120,000km in that time.
    If we were going to get cam wear it would have shown up well and truly by now.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    You may be referring to this in the Penrite FAQ:

    Why can’t we use the new Enviro+ oils in place of the existing HPR range?

    Enviro+ oils are low in SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur), which in turn is low in zinc (zinc is a part of the same compound as phosphorus). Zinc is a very effective anti-wear agent and if it is reduced, may cause premature wear in the engine, especially if they use flat tappet cams. So, an Enviro Plus oil should not be used unless it is recommended for the application.
    that was it!

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    but after a short warmup period there'll be bugger all in it.
    ah yes, but dont all the ads say that the most engine damage is done during startup?

    i find this helpful
    - Bob is the Oil Guy


    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    In engines such as the Isuzu 4JX1 oil viscosity is critical as the injectors use engine oil to generate hydraulic pressure to generate injection pressure.
    Use the wrong viscosity oil at your peril in these type of engines.
    yep, there have been cases where the 4JX1 is driven in, the new mech drops the oil, puts in 10w or 15w and then the car wont start. mech is confused as all he did was a simple oil change.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    ah yes, but dont all the ads say that the most engine damage is done during startup?

    i find this helpful
    - Bob is the Oil Guy



    yep, there have been cases where the 4JX1 is driven in, the new mech drops the oil, puts in 10w or 15w and then the car wont start. mech is confused as all he did was a simple oil change.
    And what a disasterous engine that turned out to be

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    And what a disasterous engine that turned out to be

    JC
    the technologies in that engine were new for its day. it has its flaws
    most diesels that are coming out now days have the same technology but the technology is more mature and more mechs know how to work with these engines.

    too many aussie mechs are stuck in the stone age.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post

    i find this helpful
    - Bob is the Oil Guy


    You have to take a lot from there with a grain of salt these days, most of the member's who really knew their stuff either don't post or post very rarely these days.

    Molakule, Bruce381, TomNJ, Terry Dyson, Doug Hillary, Pablo know their stuff and Terry for one doesn't post anymore.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    the technologies in that engine were new for its day. it has its flaws
    most diesels that are coming out now days have the same technology but the technology is more mature and more mechs know how to work with these engines.

    too many aussie mechs are stuck in the stone age.
    The tech was mature, it came from CAT under license, just as the TD5 injector tech came from MTU/Detroit Diesel.

    Unusually for Isuzu I think it was detail issues, O rings, computer glitches.....

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    ah yes, but dont all the ads say that the most engine damage is done during startup?

    But was that the point of my statement ?

    Too many get hung up on "I must have a 0W-40 oil in my engine, anything else is too thick" when their car never sees below a +10*C startup.

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