Thread: Ashcroft CDL and the SLABS ECU wire cut

Sorry for the delay - I thought I'd already reported back.

The CDL went great (this should have been my first mod). At the beginning, there was a delay between engaging the CDL and the light coming on. But as the day went on, the light and CDL sync got quicker and quicker.

The Disco goes so much better off-road now.

Except for when the Disco was sitting on the diff protectors and the tyres were not in contact with any type of soil; it just went and went - brilliant.

I don't know what more to say except, I love how the Disco off-roads now. Love it!

At the same time, I also got the Tough Dog 40mm suspension lift. Maybe the two mods is what makes it better...I don't know.

There are a few images on my site. At the moment, I've not had time to post all the images. I will when I get a chance.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zippo.paris/moto/maintenance/pages/cdl-2012-08-14.html

Once again, thank you all for the advice. You have helped heaps.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Tombie

Do you mean as in "the lever on the TC is in the locked position" or as in "i have confirmed the actual unit is physically locked" ???

i mean having pushed the lowrange stick across the light does not always come on straight away. fairly sure i confirmed this when the car was jacked up.

Originally Posted by Yorkie

i mean having pushed the lowrange stick across the light does not always come on straight away. fairly sure i confirmed this when the car was jacked up.

I think the point Tombie is making is that the CDL light reflects the state of the CDL mechanism not the lever. Depending on how the locking mechanism is positioned when you move the lever to "lock" it might take a little bit of movement in the diff until all the bits line up and the diff lock engages resulting in the CDL light illuminating.

Even if you stopped instantly while the light was off the act of moving a wheel back and forth while jacked will provide enough movement to get the locking mechanism to engage.

cheers
Paul

F*%$, B@$$@%^, and other words.

It took drilling, chiselling, re-drilling and lots of skin to get the rivets off. They had deformed in between the two plates effectively making each one into 2 rivets.

As for the fitting instructions
The only way to fit the linkage is to attach it to the CDL acuator spigot and then try to line up the two bolts. No matter how much you twist turn hammer and cuss it can not be done the other way around.

Re-fitting is not simply the reverse of dismantling as you have two big nasty cables that want to bend in opposite directions.

And the 4 bolts holding the high/low range lever in place, well they were easy enough to undo at the start but you try lining up the 4 holes, holding everything in place and tightening the bolts now there are 2 cables playing silly b@#$%@.

Anybody got a spare hour tomorrow to come over and loose some skin, or just laugh at me?

ps anybody know what size spanner I need to tighten up the large nuts on the end of the cables? My set goes up to 23mm and I think I need the next size up, that and an extra joint in my arm to be able to tighten the nuts on the cable down in the transmission tunnel.

It could be said that today was not my best day.

I'll come down and take it off your hands as it seems it's too hard for you. I'll let you know how it goes.

You'll need a trailer Clubagreenie.

Did I mention that this is our daily runabout. SWMBO is not a happy lady.

Originally Posted by Gullible

You'll need a trailer Clubagreenie.

Did I mention that this is our daily runabout. SWMBO is not a happy lady.

Secret it to lay the cables where they want to lie in the tunnel..

And the bracket, take it OFF and bolt it in... Then fit it back on

Tell the wife to buy you a Dremel for your birthday

Thanks Tombie, I was thinking that was the way I would tackle it tomorrow.

The Dremel would have been a great idea. There was a heck of a lot of sparks flying around the inside of the car whilst I angle grinded the hole bigger :-(