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Thread: Remapping EU2 motors - a word of warning

  1. #91
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    I was asking about putting a Disco map in a Defender ECU, does it worth? I have never drove a Disco with a TD5 engine....

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlosbeldia View Post
    I was asking about putting a Disco map in a Defender ECU
    "Defender ECU" is only meaningful if you are talking about non-programable MSB ECU's.

    NNN000120 and NNN500020 ECU are for manual Td5's - there is also a NNN000250 but that only has maps to suit the Manual Disco.

    You can load maps to suit either Manual Defender or Manual Discovery on these ECU's. It doesn't make the slightest difference what vehicle the ECU originally came from - the configuration is in the map files so you load a map to suit your vehicle.

  3. #93
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    The last days I have played with 2 maps, one for EU2 and the other for EU3 TD5 Discovery2, with the 4 wire AAP I have fitted actually. The result, I think, is clear: with the EU2 map, the MAF reads 88,7 Kpa of ambient pressure, while with the EU3 it reads 99,7 Kpa.

    Today, our pressure is 1008.4 hPa, so for the best results, I have to return to the standard EU2 AAP, with 3 wires, because my TD5inside remap is based on standard EU2 sthde021 sttdp010 . I am not sure if the NNN will dump the typical 'coolant temperature' errors with the 3 wire AAP. With the 4 wire one, it does.

    On the other hand, the EU2 map makes the sound of the TD5 a little different, adds torque and is smoother than the same engine running the EU3.



    More info: the remap is for NNN500020 and my ECU is NNN000120. Don't know if the same map with the NNN000120 firmware will change the MAF readings.

  4. #94
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    The figures you're referring to are for the AAP (Ambient Air Pressure) sensor not the MAF. José explained the pressure reading difference earlier in the thread. It's definitely not a matter of changing between the two to suit the atmospheric pressure - the ECU works on the basis of pressure readings from the appropriate sensor: EU2 = 3 wire, EU3 = 4 wire. If you use the in wrong sensor for the MAP you are using the ECU is getting incorrect data.

    Stick with the correct variant map for your ECU. The variant maps are tailored to the hardware of the ecu and the specific sensor requirements of the vehicle so you wont be doing yourself any favours by mixing and matching.

    The best practice is to use a variant-fuel map pair to suit the ecu and vehicle, then modify the fuel maps accordingly. You pretty much guarantee so-called "ghost" faults and less than optimal running if you pick maps designed for a different ecu or vehicle.

    I'd argue what you are experiencing in terms of worse performance from the EU3 maps is entirely down to using an inappropriate remap for the engine//sensors. Which was why I posted the thread in the first place....

    Cheers
    Paul

  5. #95
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    Firstly many thanks to all, and specially to you, Paul. Your post has pushed me to respect the original config. I am on the way to return to 3 way AAP. In a week or so, i will post the results.

  6. #96
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    Hey "Off Track"

    I posted this before but maybe you missed it.

    Nanocom says I have swdxe007 which is some sort of EU3 map and as it's only a 2001 Disco I guess it's only a EU2 Disco.

    Apparently it was mapped by Davis Peformance Landy (previous owner).

    My question is how much differance did you get from adding the temp sensor to the air box.

    I'm finding it a bit thirsty (13.5+L/100km). I'm wondering should I source a EU2 map or add the temp sensor.

    Happy Days.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by joel0407 View Post
    Hey "Off Track"

    I posted this before but maybe you missed it.

    Nanocom says I have swdxe007 which is some sort of EU3 map and as it's only a 2001 Disco I guess it's only a EU2 Disco.

    Apparently it was mapped by Davis Peformance Landy (previous owner).

    My question is how much differance did you get from adding the temp sensor to the air box.

    I'm finding it a bit thirsty (13.5+L/100km). I'm wondering should I source a EU2 map or add the temp sensor.

    Happy Days.
    MY2002 which did have the EU3 motor began 3 July 2001. Check your VIN and see if it is SALLTGMxx1Axxxxxx or SALLTGMxx2Axxxxxx. If it's a "2A" the engine is EU3.

    You don't get a difference per se. It removes a fault code relating to the missing sensor, and gives correct ambient pressure reading. You are far better off just making sure that the base map matches the ECU, engine type, and gearbox rather than spending money on 4-wire AAP sensors, airfilter lids and plugs...

    FWIW The fuel map id you've given is for an EU3, Auto gearbox Disco, running on an NNN000130 ECU.

    cheers
    Paul

    Add: I think you've got a Nanocom - it might be worthwhile making a recording of the fuelling inputs to SDCard and posting up the .csv file to the forum. This will tell a lot about how the engine is running, and members who have a bit of experience interpreting the "tea-leaves" should be able to tell you if anything looks suspect...

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    MY2002 which did have the EU3 motor began 3 July 2001. Check your VIN and see if it is SALLTGMxx1Axxxxxx or SALLTGMxx2Axxxxxx. If it's a "2A" the engine is EU3.

    You don't get a difference per se. It removes a fault code relating to the missing sensor, and gives correct ambient pressure reading. You are far better off just making sure that the base map matches the ECU, engine type, and gearbox rather than spending money on 4-wire AAP sensors, airfilter lids and plugs...

    FWIW The fuel map id you've given is for an EU3, Auto gearbox Disco, running on an NNN000130 ECU.

    cheers
    Paul

    Add: I think you've got a Nanocom - it might be worthwhile making a recording of the fuelling inputs to SDCard and posting up the .csv file to the forum. This will tell a lot about how the engine is running, and members who have a bit of experience interpreting the "tea-leaves" should be able to tell you if anything looks suspect...

    Cool, thanks mate.

    I think I have a bit of a different VIN SALLTGM93YA2?????.

    From your decoder post:

    9=Td5 EGR w/o CAT for Aus, EEC, Japan (EU2?)

    3 = RHD automatic

    Y = 2000

    I think this is partly good because I might have a CDL but partly bad because I might have a EU2 and currently a EU3 map. I only have the 3 wire sensor in the Air Box.

    I'm a bit tied tonight since I started work at 3am this morning but I'll definatly get onto the fuel log thing with my Nanacom.

    Happy Days.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    FWIW The fuel map id you've given is for an EU3, Auto gearbox Disco, running on an NNN000130 ECU.

    Add: I think you've got a Nanocom - it might be worthwhile making a recording of the fuelling inputs to SDCard and posting up the .csv file to the forum. This will tell a lot about how the engine is running, and members who have a bit of experience interpreting the "tea-leaves" should be able to tell you if anything looks suspect...
    I have attached my .CSV file. I think, not sure, it might be a prime example of error incounted from a EU3 map on a EU2 Discovery 2.

    I have done some searching and I'm lead to believe my "AMBIENT PRESSURE" should not be more than 100Kpa. As you can see from my .CSV, mine is around 114Kpa at sea level. I'm around Darwin so I'm not that far above sea level.

    Please read my tea leaves.

    Happy Days.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #100
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    Yes, the ambient pressure is definitely wrong, unless Darwin is now 1500M below sea level

    The ECU will be fuelling for a much higher air density than actually exists, so the engine will be running rich.

    See if you can save out a copy of the existing map as a backup. If you can do that I'd suggest you try loading up a factory EU2 to suit the ecu/engine and give that a run for a tank or so to see what effect that has on fuel consumption.

    The problem with shifting to a 4-wire AAP is that the EU3 map still needs to be modified to run correctly on an EU2 motor, so you add the expense of new air box lid, sensor and plug to the cost of a remap. You'd be better off just skipping the exercise and getting an EU2 remap.

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