Thread: Remapping EU2 motors - a word of warning

Others will comment as they see fit, but José at TD5Inside (posts on this site) did mine specifically for towing whilst keeping an eye on economy. They did have a special price for aulro members and if you have access to a nanocom for installation (worth buying one almost for this alone) its cheaper again. The best part is that their after sales service is A1 - they will keep trying remaps if you're not satisfied, plus they race LRs so know their stuff.

Can't comment on towing, but I wouldn't worry about the EU2 -> EU3 update too much.

Stick with an EU2 compatible remap, and spend the money on an uprated intercooler. The intercooler will help keep EGT's under control while you are towing and give you an improvement in torque/power.

cheers
Paul

have gone home to tassie and picked up my nanocom and plugged her in. i have written to jose and was going to send my map to him when i came across this post of his. i'm kinda thinking it explains why my AAP reads around 116-118 even when i was parked on the beach.

so before i send my map off to him i want to make sure i resolve the AAP reading. there are some faults coming up relating to coolant as mentioned earlier in thread.

the vehicle is a 2000 td5 defender, it is running an auto via a compushift. the AAP sensor is a 3 wire and i can't see any electrickery on the boost modulator??? like the disco td5. the pedal appears to be a 2 track, well when i set it to 3 track it doens't work so i'm assuming that's conclusive.

the motor is from a 2003/4 disco and is stamped june 2003 and starts with 16P.

it has a NNN ecu in it.

if it is the later motor (EU3 i'm assuming) does it have different injectors and/or FPR so i have to put the 3 track accelerator and 4 wire AAP in?

or do i get the EU2 map and it makes no diff as injectors & fpr are the same?

thanks,
brett.

Originally Posted by td5inside

Hi,

Hopefully I can give you guys some of my experience regarding this subject, although almost everything was said.

Again, sorry for not writing absolute correct language but, as some of you know, English is not my mother language.

Main differences between Eu2 and Eu3 are the throttle settings, the injector pressure and of course the AAP sensor.

An NNN ECU and EU3 map has more accurate settings and readings than old msb units and eu2 maps. That´s why you will always achieve more performance with EU3. Trying to make an EU2 engine “look and behave” like an EU3 (if we can put it this way) is always a difficult task that needs constant adjustments till it´s perfect, specially when you are using nanocom – with rovacom is a bit easyer, because it allow us to match the software variant with fuel tune id.Of course, in this process some “ghost” errors can pop up in the ECU, and they should be looked with attention and of course see which ones are a reason to worry about.

Regarding the AAP sensor offtrack had the subject very well covered.

Using an NNN ECU EU3 in a post 2002 car with a 3 wire AAP sensor will give you non accurate atmospheric pressure readings. The ECU will have inputs 10/15% above real. For example: if we are in a place with 950mba the ECU will have inputs of around 1070mba. 10% to 15% seems to be a small difference, but in fact this is the difference of the car being in a place 600 m above sea-level or in a place at 1000m... big difference!

3 Wires:



4 wires:




What happens is that the oxygen concentration at 600m above the sea-level is a lot different from the oxygen concentration at 1000m. So, the ECU will tell the engine to inject more diesel in order to make a good combustion. This will make the engine to work with more fuel then needed, specially when your car is at higher places.

Just a quick note to say that readings with the nanocom are in kpa/cm2 so you will have to x10 that number to have mbar readings.

Differences between AAP sensor pre and post 2002:
- In both cases they receive the 5v signal from the pin8 of the ECU conector – Pink/purple cable
- In both cases they receive power from the signal - Pin 30 of the ecu – Pink/black cable
- In both cases the outsignal for the AAP sensor is a White/yellow cable wich goes to de pin 10 of the ECU
The main difference is the Green/Blue cable - pin 31 of the ECU – This output signal gives information regarding air temperature and egt. So, with a 4 wire AAP sensor, the ECU receives to different signals from the sensor. These are data for the discovery. Defender is a bit difference in some parts, most regarding to some cable derivation to the IAT I believe.

Additional Information:
The 4 wire AAP sensor is LR P/N MHK100820 and is the same sensor form the new mini, so any BMW dealership can source you that at half the price - part number 0872648
If needed, there are connectors available here:
Simtek (UK) - For All Your Automotive Connectors=

Hope this info is useful.

Regards,
José

Originally Posted by pibby

have gone home to tassie and picked up my nanocom and plugged her in. i have written to jose and was going to send my map to him when i came across this post of his. i'm kinda thinking it explains why my AAP reads around 116-118 even when i was parked on the beach.

so before i send my map off to him i want to make sure i resolve the AAP reading. there are some faults coming up relating to coolant as mentioned earlier in thread.

the vehicle is a 2000 td5 defender, it is running an auto via a compushift. the AAP sensor is a 3 wire and i can't see any electrickery on the boost modulator??? like the disco td5. the pedal appears to be a 2 track, well when i set it to 3 track it doens't work so i'm assuming that's conclusive.

the motor is from a 2003/4 disco and is stamped june 2003 and starts with 16P.

it has a NNN ecu in it.

if it is the later motor (EU3 i'm assuming) does it have different injectors and/or FPR so i have to put the 3 track accelerator and 4 wire AAP in?

or do i get the EU2 map and it makes no diff as injectors & fpr are the same?

thanks,
brett.

The defender doesn't use the boost modulator so you won't find the electrickery.

I'm not sure about the wiring on the defenders, but assuming the same principles apply (and the screen shot suggests they do) I'd highly recommend you update to a 4-wire AAP and the 3-way pedal. All EU3 base maps will be designed for this configuration so you'll see errors and misfuelling with the throttle and AAP left in place.

cheers
Paul

thanks paul.

i've attached a photo of the maps on the ecu and tried to reference them to a link from an earlier tombie post but can't find them listed. it appears tombie's list is just EU2 and i'm inferring mine is a EU3?

do you/anyone know if the injectors and fpr are the same between the EU3 motor and the earlier ones?

what i'm getting at is if i am a lazy bugger, what would happen if i just put a standard EU2 map back in (for auto or manual?) would it work ok? it actually goes ok now but it goes into limp (i'm assuming it's such as accelerator response goes all doughy). turn off and back on and she's good to go again.

i'm interstate working and i keep telling myself no playing with the car till i get back home and then i'll just drive it into JC's workshop.

thanks,
brett.

just realised this thread is in the D2 - hope you guys don't mind getting your mouths dirty talking defender talk!

Originally Posted by pibby

thanks paul.

i've attached a photo of the maps on the ecu and tried to reference them to a link from an earlier tombie post but can't find them listed. it appears tombie's list is just EU2 and i'm inferring mine is a EU3?

do you/anyone know if the injectors and fpr are the same between the EU3 motor and the earlier ones?

what i'm getting at is if i am a lazy bugger, what would happen if i just put a standard EU2 map back in (for auto or manual?) would it work ok? it actually goes ok now but it goes into limp (i'm assuming it's such as accelerator response goes all doughy). turn off and back on and she's good to go again.

i'm interstate working and i keep telling myself no playing with the car till i get back home and then i'll just drive it into JC's workshop.

thanks,
brett.

just realised this thread is in the D2 - hope you guys don't mind getting your mouths dirty talking defender talk!

No problems - happy to help a member of the Td5 brotherhood

The map you've got installed is a for a manual European spec EU3 Defender 90 which is all fine.

The injectors and FPR are both different. You'll be able to tell the FPR is correct for the motor due to the three hoses that connect to it. One will run along beside inlet manifold to near the front of the head.

The injectors are also different between the two motor types. The pressure was increased from 1500bar on the EU2 to 1750bar on the EU3. The injector stroke is longer and the rockers and rocker shaft plus timing gears were also uprated to handle the increased injector loads. I'm sure someone will correct me but from memory EU2 injectors have blue or black spacer around the plunger and the EU3 injectors are green.

Afternoon,

After reading right through the pages (very interesting reading)

My previous D2 was a 03 TD5 and i had the BD chip put in as it was one of the first 03 D2's (i think from memory it was a Dec02 build)

i have a question regarding my current disco. Its a 04 D2 TD5. So does that mean its automatically a EU3 engine and how do you tell.

What do i need to do to remap. I had the advice given to me to carry out the EGR mod first (kit on its way from the UK) then look at remapping.

Im currently searching the forum for the best place to purchase a Nanocom. I have been putting it off for a while but im almost ready and need to find the best place to get one. Advice anyone.

Craig

ooops, just found the info on Nano coms in the electronic gizmos folder.

Still after the info on the EU3 engine etc though.