Reply With QuoteYou dont hear of many D2 v8's needing new mounts,,
as opposed to that other D2
Master
Is changing the engine mounts a relatively easy job as I have read?. I've heard that use a trolly jack to raise the engine and take the weight and merely unbolt and swap
The MOD Father
You dont hear of many D2 v8's needing new mounts,,
as opposed to that other D2
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Moderator
Here we goOriginally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
You dont hear of many D2 v8's needing new mounts,,
as opposed to that other D2
It's quite a simple job, and the way you've described is pretty much SOP
The MOD Father
Hey!
it was a serious comment!
[I'm sure Rob will be along to provide more info,,
and maybe a reason?]
well the first part was
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG]
RoverLord
quite understandable really...You dont hear of many D2 v8's needing new mounts,,
as opposed to that other D2
its all about torque, since the v8 has none and relies on spinning up to rotary/whippersnipper Rpms to make any decent power the mounts are subject to much less stress.
There is also the fact that with the fuel economy being what it is and the cost of fuel being what that is most v8 owners are too scared to bury the boot in case they have to remortgage before payday to fill the cavity under the rear floor.
For the OP.
yes if you get the OEM mounts with the studs that are only just long enough to take the nut and washer its about that easy although I like to remove the shroud first.
if you get long threaded "resembles the original mount" type mount then you can be in for some additional work with the crowbar and judicious application of mechanics cursive persuasion
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
The MOD Father
Well it cant be about kilowatts,,
because according to rave 04-1
the TD5 dont make any
and, oh yea,, I'm sure before the deep fryer makes an appearance the V8 make more torques than the oiler,,,
next silly idea?
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG]
Master
When I had the car serviced, the report said that my LH engine mount was broken.. Not sure how to check if it is or not...
Master
Hmmmm just crawled under and looked. Don't seem anything wrong with it.. What would it look like to be broken? the bolt off ? The rubber split?Hey!
it was a serious comment!
[I'm sure Rob will be along to provide more info,,
and maybe a reason?]
well the first part was
AT REST
Carefully jack up the engine with a block of wood under the sump. A broken engine mount will be obvious as the rubber separates from its upper or lower mounting plate.
Rob
The mount is a square block of silenbloc rubber sandwiched between two plates.
If the mount is on the way out it will start showing signs of separation at the sandwich plates.
In extreme cases the rubber bloc will part company and you will get engine movement.
The Y pipe on a V8 will arrest the engine under torque reaction and if left will break the Y pipe at the cat or at the flanges on the manifold. In really bad cases I have seen the cooling fan scuff a hole in the fan cowl top cover near the top hose blister/channel.
If you get under the truck with a jack or pry bar you can quickly determine if one or more are broken.
I tend to drop the Y pipe from the manifold, remove the fan cowl top cover, raise the engine, remove the mount bracket on the left side of the engine, and pull the lump out having removed the fixing nuts (so that it comes out on two or more bits!)
Remember I work on left hookers!
Replacement is a simple reverse of dis-assembly, I always use new flange gaskets and nuts when putting the Y pipe back. and some blue loctite on the block to engine bracket bolts
Hope that helps you.
Cheers Dennis
zedcars
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