Thread: Causes and Solutions - Flashing M&S Lights

Check the fuses under the bonnet. In particular 30A fuse, last on the right as you look from the RH guard. I think is indicated by engine with lightning bolt.

Thanks for suggestions! Neighbor's son came home with a professional shop computer for me to read faults. P0758 Solenoid Valve 2 Monitoring (S/C To Ground Or O/C) came up and couldn't be cleared. Feeling happy to have it narrowed down. Now hopefully it's not too painful to fix!

Ok so I'm hoping I find the issue here amongst the spaghetti of wiring. Found some dodgy looking wiring that goes down through the transmission tunnel grommet. Any idea what this wiring is for?

Originally Posted by PhilipA

ACO,mon place for chafing is where the loom passes over the transmission at the back of the console.
To easily access it you have to remove the top of the console.
Regards Philip A ( in Legian)

Just spent the morning removing the console. Found a good YouTube video explaining the process. YouTube
Then drilled out 16 rivits to remove the mounting plate. Found the harness running on top of the gearbox and it is wrapped in a heat resistant sleeve which looked intact. But when I opened it I found a broken wire. Hopefully that will solve my problem.

I know this thread is old but hope this helps others. 40km short of Diamantina Lakes NP in Qld and the M and S lights come on and into limp mode. Pull over, switch off to clear and restart and engine cranks, but no fuel getting through to engine. Fuel pump isn't making any noise, suspected faulty. Check fuses under bonnet (PS red fuse puller under dash is really helpful once you find it!), all seem ok. End up getting towed (another story) to Longreach, 9 hrs away, at enormous expense.

Find fuse gone under bonnet that had looked ok out in the bush. Car restarts, goes into limp mode 5 mins later. More blown fuses including F10, F2, F4, also F24 under dash (the s and m light one) blowing consistently. Put electrical tape round various bits of transmission wiring loom under car, including heat shielded part, problem goes away. Problem returns 200km later, more random tape applied, problem now 'solved' 2000km later.... I was also not aware that you have to press the rubber inertia fuel cutoff switch under the bonnet (passenger side on firewall) if the fuel pump fuse goes (well I pressed it anyway, many times).

in summary, if the M and S lights come on AND you get cranking but no fuel, it could be a short/rubbed wire in the loom. Also check the coolant pipe (T piece) going down from the reservoir past the steering rack: mine rotted through in several places from leaking steering fluid, which caused two more breakdowns/patch ups (always carry rescue tape). Never had a problem in the outback over 90000 km of remote driving until now.
PS The mechanic in Longreach called John Lee motors knows TD5s. Good to know, although he may not be keen to see me again. He owns a 1984 RRC. Or the one in Tambo. Or the one in Augathella. Or MR Automotive in Brisbane.... Lovely blokes though and very helpful.