Thread: Anyone got the install instructions of the TJM T15 bar?

Sorry OffTrack , Now that I read my reply in context with yours I see it is clear as mud . What I was referring to was if you changed All your indicators to LED, or at least 2 per side. Then you have to add load to make up for the lost loading of the incandescent bulbs. I changed my rear lights to LED, no probs, it reverted to factory,IE no trailer flashing on dash with rest, only with a trailer connected did it work. Then I changed out the bullbar indicators for LED and flashers went 90 to the dozen as the resistance was gone. So I added 1 of those resistors per side and VOILA back to normal! and the bulb outage factor still will work as we have only corrected for the lost load, add more and you will alter it.And Yes the resistor is encased within the metal bar as a heat sink, because they get bloody hot! O-O The resistors are installed in the positive wire to the light in question and earthed to the chassis, so can be added under the bullbar if you so wish.
They will not correct adding a bullbar with incandestent bulbs. If you only have that extra load change the indicator bulbs in the bar to LED and your loading is back to normal. I hope this has made it clearer? Maybe?

Cheers Scott.
PS this is prob why I never made a school teacher!

OOPS! I got it wrong again, did not realize you were referring to the pic of the circuit board for the metal "hoops" ! I dont think they would be the resistors, possible but more likely they are "bridges" or heat sinks. At a glance I can see no resistors on the main board, 2 blocking diodes only. Possibly 1 on the upright board but not clear. The ballast resistors are in an alloy heat sink :/ This thread may end up in the electronics yet

Cheers Scott

After enhancing that pic I can see that most of the components on the circuit boards are SMD's A real pain to read values off and work on! So flaming SMALL!