Thread: the dreaded back door

Originally Posted by Robgw

SCA do a $2 can of degreasant which is the best I have ever used. I used to use GUNK from the UK great but expensive. This 2 buck product is superb.

I use WD on electrical connectors and around the suspension arms. Anywhere else degreasant.

It is not a good idea to use WD-40 or most of the water displacing / lubricates on electrical contacts as they contain acids that attack the copper and brass contact surfaces! Use a dedicated electrical contact cleaner/lubricate and save future problems. An exception is Inox as it contains no acids. Cheers Scott

When we were on our trip around oz, via many dusty dirt tracks, I found the rear door getting harder to open. I used graphite powder in a little plastic bottle squirted up in the handke and mechanism and all came good again, until another 1000 kms of dirt when I repeated the process.

An essential part of the touring kit.

Don't use wd40

I never had much luck using graphite powder. I had the same back door stuck issue, and have since used silicone spray with no further issues. Hope I am not setting myself up for a disaster later on though.

Thought it might have been a "SUPER LOCK" that i have read about on here. I have tried everything short of the "crowbar" but to no avail, cannot budge it, slammed the back passenger door, lay'd in side and kicked the daylights out of the door, prayed quietly up close and personnal, threatened to invoke the wrath of the lord of the underworld, even threatened to to stcik a Toyota badge on the back door, but nup will not budge. The lock was a new genuine part last May and have not done any sort of trip tp fill it with gunk.
Looks like and expensive trip to the LR Dealer.
Oztruckdriver
WASN'T ME OFFICER, I WAS GOING THE OTHER WAY

X2 on the Inox recommended by Geelong Locksmiths over graphite.

I just replaced the plastic plinth around the handle, last one broke when I got the irits when the door would not open. Put everything back together and checked the handle operation, all ok so shut the door.
Now it will not open! Will have another go tomorrow but its a pain in the rear as barrier in the way.

i had similar problems , replaced several locks and a handle. even considered the possibility of a d1 door. but a bit of mucking around found that a approx 1 inch long tension spring hooked into the lock 's arm , where connects to the grab handle , then cable tied to the top of the door has done the trick. . been fine for about 6 months now and compared to parts prices the less than a dollar trick was value for cash.

Originally Posted by Yorkie

I just replaced the plastic plinth around the handle, last one broke when I got the irits when the door would not open. Put everything back together and checked the handle operation, all ok so shut the door.
Now it will not open! Will have another go tomorrow but its a pain in the rear as barrier in the way.

To those with Barriers...

Suggest cutting a few squares out in the lower corners - enough to get your hand to the bolts holding it down...

This - when in the bush - should prevent a lot of hassle..