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Thread: MAF stuffed?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    MAF stuffed?

    (2000 td5 auto)
    Reading past threads, I found out that you can test the resistance between the 3 pins of the MAF as a preliminary test (I have no nanocom).
    Did this on mine:
    pins 1 & 2 - 17k ohms
    pins 1 & 3 - infinite ohms (no conduction between the pins at all)
    pins 2 & 3 - infinite ohms again.

    Sprayed with contact cleaner, no change.

    Previous posters have indicated that if the last 2 readings are too low it would indicate a failed MAF - what about when they are too high like mine?

    Also, if the MAF IS stuffed, would that explain the intermittent rough running and occasional poor take-off I've been experiencing? The rough running is usually at idle but it can "hit&miss" at higher revs under load such as towing a load up a hill, with loss of power as well.
    The poor take-off is when I floor it from a traffic light, and I get nothing, with the revs only climbing very slowly to 2000rpm & then it kicks me in the back.
    Hope someone can de-mystify this for me
    Cheers,
    Alex

  2. #2
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    A bit more research - these ohm reading seem to mean it IS stuffed.
    Apparently if I run it disconnected I'll get my power back/
    Any recommendations where to get a replacement MAF?
    Cheers,
    Alex

  3. #3
    schuy1 Guest
    Hi Alex, bell1975 told me TR Spares in Sydney had them for 160 dollars.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex 110 View Post
    A bit more research - these ohm reading seem to mean it IS stuffed.
    Apparently if I run it disconnected I'll get my power back/
    Yes, this is the easiest way to test the MAF. Disconnect it at the electrical plug and run the vehicle. The ECU will use default value settings. If this sorts out your issue then it is likely a fault MAF sensor.


    Quote Originally Posted by Alex 110 View Post
    Any recommendations where to get a replacement MAF?
    Stick with a genuine MAF, especially if your vehicle is automatic (as it upsets the gear changes otherwise). I recently bought one through Paddock Spares from the UK and was happy with the price for an OEM unit.

  5. #5
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    What part of Sydney are you in?
    I have a spare MAF (and a Nanocom) if you'd like to try it to be sure that the MAF is in fact your problem.
    If it works, you never know, I may even be talked into offloading it.
    Roger


  6. #6
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    Yep, it's stuffed....


  7. #7
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    Hi,
    One of my favourite Oz suppliers today quoted me approx $250 for brand new genuine. I thought that was ok. I dunno if I can get it much cheaper OS.

    MAF must be a seasonal thing. Lots of them failing lately.

    Ralph

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    One of my favourite Oz suppliers today quoted me approx $250 for brand new genuine. I thought that was ok. I dunno if I can get it much cheaper OS.
    About GBP65.00 is the price you'll pay for the UK for an OEM unit. Should work out way cheaper.

  9. #9
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    Update

    I'm running with the MAF unplugged, & its running better than it has in a long time - no more smoke, no hesitation at take-off, no rough running and the gear changes are great - it shifts to 4th & locks up just under 80, where it used to wait to about 90 - this is great for me as I drive a lot of 80km limit roads
    In a week or so I'll know how its affecting my fuel economy & if its still OK, I'm seriously tempted to just leave the MAF unplugged & not bother with a new one
    All smiles now,
    Alex

  10. #10
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    I tried unplugging my maf D2 td5 makes no difference to the drive! Does this mean its stuffed too or?
    My readings are 1-2 16.8k ohms other 8.5m ohms.

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