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Thread: Broken Bolt EGR Removal

  1. 25th June 2013, 04:28 PM #1
    Lyonbyrd
    Lyonbyrd is offline Fossicker
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    Broken Bolt EGR Removal

    Broke a bolt on the exhaust end/blanking plate while removing the EGR, tried to drill it then tap screw it out but that broke in the hole..

    It's pretty fiddly getting the drill in there & not sure I can get a centre hole on the bolt anymore. Would it be safe to use one bolt with the blanking plate & some gasket silicone? Or would spot welding it be better?
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  2. 25th June 2013, 06:11 PM #2
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    SiddersC
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    If it were me, I would be removing the manifold and fixing it properly

    A pain I know, but peace of mind
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  3. 25th June 2013, 06:18 PM #3
    Tombie Guest
    Don't bodge it up...

    That plate holds 18 psi at high temp
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  4. 25th June 2013, 06:36 PM #4
    Lyonbyrd
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    yeah guess I should remove the manifold then.. spending a day trying to remove a bolt is heart breaking
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  5. 25th June 2013, 06:45 PM #5
    Tombie Guest
    Whilst apart...

    Check manifold for straightness
    De-web manifold
    Replace studs

    All good maint.
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  6. 25th June 2013, 07:11 PM #6
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    newlandyowner
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    Can you get the extractor out? You won't be able to drill that out with DIY gear.

    Don't agree with cutting the webbing between ports on the manifold. I've just done my exhaust gasket and broken studs. Used standard 8mm studs, machined the manifold and drilled the bolt holes to 9.5mm. This should allow the manifold to move instead of breaking studs.

    Cutting the webbing is the strength and might cause the manifold to crack. Plus if its warped now, it should have released its tension. Plus if you do cut it, drill the end of your cut to stop any future cracks forming.

    There's plenty about it on here. Each to their own I guess.
    Last edited by newlandyowner; 25th June 2013 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Spelling and drill size
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  7. 25th June 2013, 08:03 PM #7
    Tombie Guest
    After warping the same manifold twice I looked into this at length...

    The webbing is part of the problem.

    No webbing and no issues...

    Many vehicles have been given the same treatment...
    No issues..

    The advice has proven successful for those who have done it also.

    But hey.. What would I know about Land Rovers
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  8. 26th June 2013, 09:56 AM #8
    BIG O
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    I guess I'm different ..but I would leave the manifold where it is and get other things out of the way to get at it. If all you have in there is the tap you can knock that through with a hammer and punch .If the bolts still there..try attacking it from the other end after applying plenty of localized heat.
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  9. 26th June 2013, 04:14 PM #9
    Lyonbyrd
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    took the manifold out & managed to drill another hole through it but it's not centred so took it to the diesel machinist down the road.. could be an expensive bolt

    had no drama taking the manifold off after moving the aircon, no other bolts snapped thank goOood!
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  10. 26th June 2013, 06:15 PM #10
    Tombie Guest
    Do not refit the old studs...

    Use new studs or one will break retorquing the manifold.

    And... Torque up, run up to temp and follow re torque instructions or it will fail in short order.
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