Thread: looking for AC gas 'sight glass'

if your dad is a fridge mechanic he needs to redo his course....

refilling by means of the vis gauge on the top of the reciever drier or its outlet line stopped in about 1998 when the enviro nazis decided they new better how to do AC work.

now AC systems are refilled by indicated weight only unless you have a non OEM reciever dire or african build landy

the charge plate should be near the radiator

cheers for your reply, I did say fridge mechanic and not auto electrician or air condition technician or mechanic right? no need to be catty

Will take what you've said on board. We'll have another look in the morning and check pressures.

Or charge the system by measuring the condenser subcooling method

Originally Posted by northiam

Or charge the system by measuring the condenser subcooling method

Better off checking total system superheat,return gas temperatures,liquid line subcooling temperatures,condensing temperatures,saturated suction temperature,condenser air TD,evaporator air TD,suction and discharge pressures,all at nominal engine revs,and you shouldn't be far away.

Or do it the fridgies way,just add a bit of gas until the glass clears at around 2000 to 2500 revs and see how you go.

Correct way,as others have said,reclaim,evacuate,pressure test,repair leak,fill with measured charge of refrigerant as per plate under bonnet.Replace drier if needed.

Just had mine done. Hadn't been touched in ten years and was just mmm..ok.... Thought I'd get it up to scratch for summer So service, new receiver/ dryer, gas, oil etc...and lucky me, because it has rear A/C it holds a lot more gas that's $400 thank you!

Originally Posted by RNQLD

cheers for your reply, I did say fridge mechanic and not auto electrician or air condition technician or mechanic right? no need to be catty

Will take what you've said on board. We'll have another look in the morning and check pressures.

Meow

Originally Posted by scarry

Better off checking total system superheat,return gas temperatures,liquid line subcooling temperatures,condensing temperatures,saturated suction temperature,condenser air TD,evaporator air TD,suction and discharge pressures,all at nominal engine revs,and you shouldn't be far away.

Or do it the fridgies way,just add a bit of gas until the glass clears at around 2000 to 2500 revs and see how you go.

Correct way,as others have said,reclaim,evacuate,pressure test,repair leak,fill with measured charge of refrigerant as per plate under bonnet.Replace drier if needed.

Easiest way, too. Personally my preferred method whenever the correct total charge is known. The way I see it, if you know that your charge is right (and can trust the refrigerant to be what it says on the tin - there's been some dodgy stuff around) then if the system is not operating as expected you know that there is a systemic fault.
If you don't know your charge is right, it can be significantly more complicated to diagnose a fault.

Originally Posted by scarry

Better off checking total system superheat,return gas temperatures,liquid line subcooling temperatures,condensing temperatures,saturated suction temperature,condenser air TD,evaporator air TD,suction and discharge pressures,all at nominal engine revs,and you shouldn't be far away.

Or do it the fridgies way,just add a bit of gas until the glass clears at around 2000 to 2500 revs and see how you go.

Correct way,as others have said,reclaim,evacuate,pressure test,repair leak,fill with measured charge of refrigerant as per plate under bonnet.Replace drier if needed.

The D2 (and most modern cars) has no sightglass
Condenser subcooling will help determine condenser/liquid line level, thats all