Thread: D2 Wont Start - Can't Pop Hood!

The bonnet release cable is strictly mechanical, with critical components made of perishable white nylon. To get the bonnet open you have to cut through the plastic pocket under the latch. This can be done either from underneath, or as I did from through the grille. I sharpened a long flat bladed screwdriver into a chisel and cut open the pocket. Then it wasn't hard to manipulate the latch lever from underneath. Fixing the cable required replacement of the said white nylon spacer with a scrap of copper tubing wrapped around the outer cable.

As for the rest of it, well, it is a Land Rover after all. The thrills of driving a brilliant machine designed and built by the Poms.

Got my girlfriend to pull the latch while I bounced the bonnet a bit and it popped up. Perhaps it's a stretched cable so need to look at adjusting it and replacing. Thanks for letting me know it's purely mechanical. Now to jump start it and find out what today's issue is.

Originally Posted by Discotrip

Got my girlfriend to pull the latch while I bounced the bonnet a bit and it popped up. Perhaps it's a stretched cable so need to look at adjusting it and replacing. Thanks for letting me know it's purely mechanical. Now to jump start it and find out what today's issue is.

The Cables aren't really adjustable, I ignored mine as it was intermittent and on borrowed time . When it did let go whilst trying to get underneath to break the plastic cover I put a hole in the air con condenser. I've been putting it off replacing the condenser but its starting to get hot and I love A/C so that's this weeks job

Yeah, I tried having a look at it yesterday now that the D2 is dead and waiting on a new alternator (haven't ordered yet) and couldn't really see a way of getting to the cable without removing the three rivets.

The odd thing is when the cable is pulled, the catch pulls back fully. With the bonnet closed though it needs a little bounce/push to get it to pop up.

so does the bonnet just need adjusting or lock lubricating, as for the alt sounds like a passion fingers last attempt to fix it. Do it once do it properly
Goodluck

Yeah, the mechanic is a tool. The D2 is stuck on the drive now so I think I'll just get an after market one and send the original back to the mechanic to fix properly. I have a feeling he used Holden bearings for it.

if the alt lamp is on with the key off then it has done the rectifier, specifically most likely an exciter diode. the bearing noise you heard then is possibly most likely produced by a failing diode/ rectifier, not a mechanical failure. the battery will drain to earth quite quickly due to this fault. the only economic option is to buy a new alternator in my experience.

jc

Hi,

I'm hoping that's the issue. The mechanic is sending over the auto electrician who "serviced" the alternator. He's thinking it could be the regulator too, in which case it's a "coincidence" and we'll have to get a new one. By the sounds of it they just changed the bearings too and left the brushes alone.

Waiting for the electrician to come and diagnose the issue. Personally I think they should fix it on their dime, particularly since I sent it to get the noise diagnosed and $500 later (with an apparently good alternator and new idler pulley) it's still present and now the D2 is dead.

Tempted to get them to fix it, order an aftermarket one and then keep the old one as a spare. Thoughts?

This forum has became invaluable for information on the D2. Hopefully I'll have enough experience by the end of the week to help out on a million issues as well.