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Thread: Exhaust Studs.

  1. 5th November 2013, 07:47 PM #1
    Will Wallace's Avatar
    Will Wallace
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    Exhaust Studs.

    Just pulled the downpipe off the Td5. Seems the flex joint has a 200k life, as I had to change one at the same time in my 110.

    Anyways, I could sometimes hear a scream or whistle. I hoped it was the flex joint.

    Seems I have 1 snapped stud. It is the top foremost one. (cyl 1?)

    Can I purchase just one of these or do I need to do the bloody lot?

    I'm in Sydney but head back to Townsville in 3 weeks. I'm tempted to leave it be till I get home, as cash is tight. If I can do just the one then I will.

    Part #? And do I have to buy genuine or can I get the stud from an auto supplier?

    Will.
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  2. 5th November 2013, 08:14 PM #2
    IanP
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    Hi Will,

    You have to take the manifold off so I would suggest you do them all. They are not expensive and although many say to use high tensile studs, I would rather have a stud break (easily replaceable) than strip the thread it goes into.

    If the broken stud has broken below the surface, the studs are relatively soft and can easily be centre popped, drilled and removed with an Ezi Out.

    Ian
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  3. 5th November 2013, 08:17 PM #3
    Will Wallace's Avatar
    Will Wallace
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    Don't suppose you would know the size? Thread? Supplier? Part #?

    Will.
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  4. 6th November 2013, 03:13 PM #4
    IanP
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    Will, they are M8 by 38mm long, they were cheap and I got them from Rovacraft in Melbourne. I cannot recall the cost, but any LR dealer or LR specialist should have them. I used bell washers with them to allow a small amount of 'give', but it is not essential to do that.

    Seeing you snapped one stud I would replace them all otherwise you may be taking the manifold off again in six months time!

    Ian
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  5. 6th November 2013, 04:00 PM #5
    Scouse's Avatar
    Scouse
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    You could well find the manifold warped too. It's a common problem & there are numerous ways to fix it detailed on AULRO.
    Scott
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  6. 6th November 2013, 08:01 PM #6
    Will Wallace's Avatar
    Will Wallace
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    Exhaust studs!

    How does one remove snapped exhaust manifold studs on a td5?
    What tools, technique?

    Have already removed the manifold and have 3 broken.

    If anyone is near Liverpool or Moorebank NSW that has done this, some help would be appreciated.

    Will.
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  7. 6th November 2013, 09:17 PM #7
    Will Wallace's Avatar
    Will Wallace
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    Cheers scouse.

    I previously had a 110 td5, so am well aware of the issues of the mighty little engine. Hahaha

    I have limited phone internet so searching is also limited.

    Will.
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  8. 6th November 2013, 09:40 PM #8
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    Scouse
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    Grind webbing & enlarge holes:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...d-gaskets.html

    Webbing & stainless studs:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...l-whistle.html

    Bigger studs:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-manifold.html

    Webbing 'how to' & stud kit info:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...old-studs.html

    Webbing 'how to':
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...g-out-web.html

    More here:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ifold-td5.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...aust-stud.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ifold-td5.html

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...uds-again.html

    Happy reading .
    Scott
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  9. 6th November 2013, 09:56 PM #9
    Will Wallace's Avatar
    Will Wallace
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    Thanks a great deal for the time you took to find all that Scouse.

    Greatly appreciated.

    Will.
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  10. 7th November 2013, 08:19 AM #10
    G Griggs
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    I removed a broken stud last weekend. It was a rear stud though and i had good access. I left the manifold on and used a drill bit the same size as the manifold to centre the drill bit and leave a dimple for the drill bit (it had broken on an angle so centre punching and drilling would have been hard)
    Then i ran a 4mm drill bit down the centre of the stud. when it went to break through it gripped the stud and wound it to the bottom of the hole. That was good because it meant the stud wasn't jammed in. When I went to wind the stud out the start of the thread was damaged, so screwed it back in and ran a tap down the hole and cleaned it up. The stud then came out easily.
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