Reply With Quotesounds like it is pinging under load,what fuel are you running,try running a higher octane rating,some seem to ping others dont,mine runs unleaded fine,also check that your manifold bolts are tight.
Hi,
I recently purchased a 2000 V8 D2 with 197k on the clock. It had a few annoying issues such as the intermittent bonnet catch, door locks, three amigos, a couple of bad engine pulleys etc. I fixed all of those and for the last week or two since we've been on the road it's been running great without a hitch.
One thing I have noticed though is the engine rattles quite a bit under acceleration (sounds almost like a VW Beetle to my ears!). However, I didn't notice this before I changed the oil and have heard that certain oils bring out the noise more than others?
Just wonder what you guys think? I used Penrite 10W50 for the oil change as this seemed the most recommended. I recall reading that someone did say mineral oil seemed to have his engine running really quiet. Is the sound normal, or could it be a sign of something that needs to be fixed or serviced?
Thanks,
Antony.
Wizard
sounds like it is pinging under load,what fuel are you running,try running a higher octane rating,some seem to ping others dont,mine runs unleaded fine,also check that your manifold bolts are tight.
Master
Gaskets where the y-pipe meets the manifolds are pretty common to replace. Cracked manifolds happens too.
I am using 95 when I can, otherwise 98 as recommended. It doesn't seem to rattle as bad when cold, or when at idle (with revving).
Also, how easy is it to get to and replace the manifold gasket?
Swaggie
If it was the oil, I would expect it to be rattly at idle as well.
As the others have said, it sounds like pinging. Have you checked the timing?
I haven't. I figured since it was a chain and doesn't misfire that all was alright.
The MOD Father
Having owned a D2 V8 for over 7 years I can admit to not having a clue how to check the timing,
nanocom maybe?
The motor has to actually "knock" once for the sensors to work it out,,
by rights the ecu should then change the timing to whatever is required to stop it.
The low compression engine runs happily on 91/3/5/8
as a cheap/quick test add some octane boost or refill from another servo.
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Swaggie
SubscriberIf the car has been driven slowly over a long period then it may be badly coked.
One result of this is that the exhaust valves can stick which costs lots as the heads have to come off.
One of the remedies for coking is an "Italian Tune Up".
Go out where you will not be booked and drive like you stole it. If you can find long climbs where the engine is working hard all the better, or load it with a heavy trailer and drive it hard.
This may take several hours of hard work to clear.
Regards Philip A
ForumSage
SubscriberManifolding branch gasket if its daker daker style rattling for sure as said above - they can loosen off as mine did and drop a bolt or two then blow the gasket.
If that is all good it might be piston slap, but that will be worse on immediate start up at different heating rates.
It could have been abused and may be a bit prematurely worn. My 230,000k 4.0 is quiet as a mouse when warm and my 300,000k D1 3.9 is also quiet as a mouse.
Cheers
In all fairness I do drive it a little hard - within reason. I didn't buy a V8 so I could putter up hills and sit under the speed limit.
I did notice that it looks like some of the old gasket is coming away from the engine underneath. I imagine this must be the issue although I also haven't checked any bolts and such. I know it needs a new O2 sensor so was waiting until I ordered that before I had under the engine looked at properly.
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