As Plaven says, low voltage can cause all the weird symptoms you describe. Are you able to change to a known good fully charged battery or at least use a jumper pack to supply more power?
As Plaven says, low voltage can cause all the weird symptoms you describe. Are you able to change to a known good fully charged battery or at least use a jumper pack to supply more power?
Regards, Will
Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12
First thing I would do is remove clean and replace the vehicle battery terminals and maybe the earths around the battery.
I had a similar thing on the day I bought my D2 and didn't make it home. I had to cut off the negative terminal and replace it, and the car ran well ever since although the alternator failed the next day! LOL.
That was probably coincidence as I recently pulled it apart and the brushes were worn out.
As a longer term fix, you can disable the alarm system and active immobiliser with a Nanocam. My car has this done and I have never had a problem, except when I exceeded the "time out" for passive immobilisation by having the key in the ignition for more than 5 minutes without starting.
Unless you live in a high crime area where people steal 10 year old 4WDs that is.
Regards Philip A
Last edited by PhilipA; 4th January 2014 at 08:15 AM. Reason: more info
It ended up on the back of an racv tilt truck and is due for open hart surgery on Monday at the local non dealer Land Rover repairer.
Thanks to every one who tried to help.
I will report the result.
have had similar with my disco intermittent no start, no faults on nanocom, no funny lights on dash but not even a click. decided to change starter (ended up getting it done as couldn't get top bolt out) and problem had a holiday. came back after a break and same issues, not even a click from starter. finally found the starter solenoid wire connection had spread losing contact. closed the terminal and have had no issues showing the most basic can also be very tricky to find and fix
X2. I had this happen on my D2 as well around 12 months ago. thought the worst new alternates/starter motor. Ended up been the negative terminal not making contact properly. I think they call it a dry joint.
a good clean and a bit of adjustment of the terminal no problems since.
cheers, Chris
I don't think it is any of these thing listed. I have all dash lights windows work etc. but no central locking .
Lights and battery all good but I have flashing M&S and alarms going mad but now doing so silently.
The L/R work shop is going to run a setting check on their computer .
They think the only key I own has lost it's code. We will see on Monday. Regards Nick. ( worane)
I once had a problem like this I took the negative terminal cable off the battery and touched the positive terminal there was a little spark then put it back onto the battery problem solved... All computer systems are forced to reset
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
The flashing hazards & M&S lights - I had this issue a couple of weeks back. Driving along the highway and the engine stalled. It had enough inertia to coast to the side of the road. Nanocom came up with a CANbus timeout fault in the auto edu section. Resetting the fault with the Nanocom did nothing, the fault came back straight away. RACQ fellow did what was suggested above, and all came good. Actually, he disconnected both the positive and negative terminals and touched them together.
Got it again a week later, and I checked the main engine ECU and found some oil had made it to the lower end of the red connector, which is where the auto box connects to the ecu (I believe). Cleaned it out, and has been fine since.
Let us know what fault codes your mechanic finds.
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