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Thread: TD5 Water temp??

  1. #11
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    thanks guys for the nice replies.


    Tombie,
    The sender is supposed to earth through the sender itself as it has only one connection. Checked continuity at the base of the sender and I have a good earth right back to the battery and every where in between, like housing, block & body so I can but only assume the sender has had the Richard.


    and yes, it is nice to know the actual temps are in range. When I get a new sender at least I will then be able to monitor temps as they fluctuate.


    Cheers again,
    Jack.

  2. #12
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    If as I understand it, you have a nanocom, why not do what many of us do and have it permanently hitched up in instrument mode in your beast. You can even set an alarm point for the coolant temp. I hide my nanocon on a home built bracket down near and under the ashtray, so it is less likely to be sighted by would be removers.

    See here at #4 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-gauges-2.html
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  3. #13
    Tombie Guest
    No wuckers!!!

    Reason for my question was I have seen sensors there that are earthed as you mention not getting a solid electrical earth to the head.
    The fitment of an earth "strap" (wire) from housing to head resolves this.

    My EMS has it's additional sensor in the same location and suffered this problem.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    If as I understand it, you have a nanocom, why not do what many of us do and have it permanently hitched up in instrument mode in your beast. You can even set an alarm point for the coolant temp. I hide my nanocon on a home built bracket down near and under the ashtray, so it is less likely to be sighted by would be removers.

    See here at #4 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-gauges-2.html
    Wow, and I thought my cockpit was "busy", lol.
    Regards, Will

    Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
    LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
    Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    I suspect your gauge is reading low, or your sensor is located in an unusual spot.
    Using my nanocom on instrument mode in my D2a the range is 88 - 94 in normal running. Towing a trailer up a long steep hill in 44 degrees ambient temp i got it up to 104 with EGT at 700. My radiator is only 20K old and the second engine has done about 65K. Dave (blaknight?) commented recently that if all is well mechanically the temp can safely go higher.
    I tent to agree those figure listed by Gav. Recent trip travel from mount isa Qld to ballarat Vic, most of the time coolant are sitting around 90-97 deg. Perhaps over 100 deg is normal but I wouldn't push it, if nanocom show 100 deg the chances of boiling coolant will be high. By the way, this is only personal point of view.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by winaje View Post
    Wow, and I thought my cockpit was "busy", lol.
    "This your Captain Gav speaking, we are now completing final instrument checks. As we prepare for take off...."

    There is a really interesting looking line of instruments listed here: Maxi Singles 3.5 inch Electronic Digital Aircraft Instruments
    The E-1 engine monitor ($325AU delivered) looks like the most useful, but if you are a wanna be pilot you could make up a pretty impressive instrument pod to monitor just about everything

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlvinD2a View Post
    I tent to agree those figure listed by Gav. Recent trip travel from mount isa Qld to ballarat Vic, most of the time coolant are sitting around 90-97 deg. Perhaps over 100 deg is normal but I wouldn't push it, if nanocom show 100 deg the chances of boiling coolant will be high. By the way, this is only personal point of view.
    100°C is not even close to boiling point for the system.
    With 50:50 coolant:water and the system at 14psi the boiling point is 128°C.

    The ECU doesn't start taking additional measures to assist cooling until 110°C, then starts load shedding at 115°C.
    "Panic Stations" is at 120°C at which point the standard gauge is at max and the red light will be on.

  8. #18
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    With 50:50 coolant:water and the system at 14psi the boiling point is 128°C.
    I learned something in Saudi Arabia.
    I had a Nissan Sunny runabout and was at the Riyadh dealer one day to buy a new exhaust as my then 12 year old son had snapped the old one while I was teaching him to drive with a particularly vicious clutch drop.

    As I was standing at the counter I noticed the Sunny parked outside start to drop coolant, so ordered a new cap as well. I fitted the new cap and no more heat soak boiling. This was in 40-45C ambient.

    IMHO the role of a pressure cap is to mainly to stop boiling from heat soak once the engine is stopped.

    Nearly all engines should not exceed 100C when running and for example RRC electric fans cut in at 102C and out at 97C in addition to the viscous which cuts in at about 92-94C. In my RRC they only cut in once in 13 years of ownership.

    The TD5 viscous fan in my D2 cuts in loudly at about 92-94 C , so the engine is designed to generally run below that temp.

    So I personally would not be comfortable if my car exceeded 100C except in very unusual circumstances.
    Maybe not so crucial in a TD5, but run a V8 over 100c for long and you are asking for a moving sleeve.

    BTW I note that the TD5 does not heat soak anywhere near as much as a V8. In my V8 I noticed that on hot days when I was stuck in roadworks in Queensland the temp would rise 5-8C in 5 minutes before dropping back, but the TD5 doesn't seem to rise very much at all.
    Regard sPhilip A

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I learned something in Saudi Arabia.
    I had a Nissan Sunny runabout and was at the Riyadh dealer one day to buy a new exhaust as my then 12 year old son had snapped the old one while I was teaching him to drive with a particularly vicious clutch drop.

    As I was standing at the counter I noticed the Sunny parked outside start to drop coolant, so ordered a new cap as well. I fitted the new cap and no more heat soak boiling. This was in 40-45C ambient.

    IMHO the role of a pressure cap is to mainly to stop boiling from heat soak once the engine is stopped.

    Nearly all engines should not exceed 100C when running and for example RRC electric fans cut in at 102C and out at 97C in addition to the viscous which cuts in at about 92-94C. In my RRC they only cut in once in 13 years of ownership.

    The TD5 viscous fan in my D2 cuts in loudly at about 92-94 C , so the engine is designed to generally run below that temp.

    So I personally would not be comfortable if my car exceeded 100C except in very unusual circumstances.
    Maybe not so crucial in a TD5, but run a V8 over 100c for long and you are asking for a moving sleeve.

    BTW I note that the TD5 does not heat soak anywhere near as much as a V8. In my V8 I noticed that on hot days when I was stuck in roadworks in Queensland the temp would rise 5-8C in 5 minutes before dropping back, but the TD5 doesn't seem to rise very much at all.
    Regard sPhilip A
    Sorry mate, but in this case you are talking out your arse.

    TD5 Specs from rave for electric cooling fan operation:



    Note the phrase "for normal running". Yes it is hot, but is within design specs for the Td5.
    Add: If you look at the specs for the D2 V8 the electric cooling fan kicks in at 100°C and switches off at 94.5°C under normal running.

    I agree with your comment that it shouldn't be above 100°C under normal conditions (with cooling system in good order), but to say "nearly all engines should not exceed 100°C" is patently nonsense.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #20
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    IMHO the role of a pressure cap is to mainly to stop boiling from heat soak once the engine is stopped.

    Nearly all engines should not exceed 100C when running and for example RRC electric fans cut in at 102C and out at 97C in addition to the viscous which cuts in at about 92-94C. In my RRC they only cut in once in 13 years of ownership.

    The TD5 viscous fan in my D2 cuts in loudly at about 92-94 C , so the engine is designed to generally run below that temp.

    So I personally would not be comfortable if my car exceeded 100C except in very unusual circumstances.
    Maybe not so crucial in a TD5, but run a V8 over 100c for long and you are asking for a moving sleeve.

    BTW I note that the TD5 does not heat soak anywhere near as much as a V8. In my V8 I noticed that on hot days when I was stuck in roadworks in Queensland the temp would rise 5-8C in 5 minutes before dropping back, but the TD5 doesn't seem to rise very much at all.
    Regard sPhilip A
    Bzzztttt... Next contestant

    For an example: Go into a later Falcons diagnostic mode and watch engine temp just running around on a hot day...Then give it some stick!!!!

    Temps of 120c+ are easily seen...


    Only 2 things damage an engine regarding coolant -
    Boiling it off
    Running so hot the integrity of the contructed materials starts to fail

    Neither of these will happen below 115c on a TD5 or V8 where the cooling system is functioning correctly.
    Generate hot spots etc through failed cooling system and yes, you open a world of hurt...

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