Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Check prop shaft yourself, don't rely on mechanics

  1. #11
    Tombie Guest
    You need to get one made slightly larger as I looked at that unit and it can't handle the offset movement or travel

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orange, NSW
    Posts
    7,965
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Or fit a Tom Woods shaft, keep up to date on your checks/greasings of the prop shaft, relocate your aircon drains and stop worrying
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  3. #13
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
    Posts
    20,105
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by AlvinD2a View Post
    Recent trip coming down from Mt Isa Qld to Ballarat Vic, front prop shaft decided to let go. It damage my diff lock assembly unit and some other parts.

    If anyone feel the driver floor vibrate or knocking noise, I would suggest to have a look. I'm lucky enough that Sean from rover part advise the mechanic in cunnamulla what to do to keep me going, it found out that my case is not the worst as no oil leaking from any other components.

    Well, got a new propshaft for $550, used diff lock assembly $600 from TRS, o-ring for transfer case and re-seal, gearbox oil cooler tubes. Guess I could have save myself $2000-$2500 if I check it or change it before the trip if I know that's a common problem.
    I drive a 101 - that describes every trip I make.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    wimmera
    Posts
    503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    chain makes good tail-shaft loop as its flexible but will contain the shaft

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    640
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You too. Mine let go on the Hume at 110 with the three kids in the back asleep. Double Kardan joint went. Took out the oil cooler lines, but the spline off the front took chunks out of the bell housing.

    Ended up doing it myself. Just back on the road this week. As detailled in an earlier thread, noticeable (but not really bad) clunking as you put your foot on and off the power.

    Tom Woods fitted, freeway driven twice - noticeable vibration on the overrun at speeds over 90kmh. Retightened the bolts, got a bit worse! Going to take out completely and put back in to try and see if that fixes. Feeling through other parts of the rev range is perfect.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    FNQ - Yungaburra
    Posts
    237
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have just ordered a Tom Woods shaft, when fitting is there a specific way to attach?
    When you rebuild a shaft all the info says to mark it out so it goes back together in exactly the same order and configuration,to make sure it is balanced. Am I right in assuming the new shaft will be balanced and just fitting will mean no vibration?
    I have evn seen comment that you need to remove the grease nipple to reduce vibration, is that overkill?

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!