Thread: Headgasket YAY

I noticed the rust in your waterways and that corrosion confirms the coolant was not changed regularly.
I would also check the pump bracket oring , and it doesn't bode well for the oil cooler either.
Regards Philip A

did you get all the other bolts in and torqued?, if yes , will be a pita to helicoil (but doable)
did you check all the lifter heights against one another to make sure none had collapsed?, best to leave the injectors and glow plugs out until the head is on to avoid damage. Once you have torqued head bolts, clean and put a dot with a paint pen on the top of each bolt facing the front of the engine , that way you will know how many degrees and how many bolts you have done so you dont get mixed up. If it starts to do your head in, walk away , then come back fresh
cheers

My coolant has been changed a lot in the last 2 years lol, as ive been chasing leaks and had pipes break and thermostat replaced. Which has been done at home.i dont know how old the water pump is though. its only had rainwater through it for a broken 2 months as mechanic qho fixed the Welsh bung plug thing did not replace with coolant and then i put coolant in and then all this happened only ever had OAT in too. Not sure is water pump could be like that from long before i owned it? Its almost back together now headbolts all torqued and correct proceedure followed. Do you know if head bolts need rechecking in a few thousand kms at all? That one cam carrier bolt is only iffy one. All others of those all torqued up too. A working torque wrench makes all the difference haha. I cant wait to have my fallen comrade back! Im getting nervous now hoping everything is going together how it should. Triple checked everything along the way and nothing out if place and lifters etc happy little campera. Everything was cleaned that needed cleaning, and everything that needed pre oiling as been oiled. Hers how the beasty looks at the moment. uploadfromtaptalk1423864985789.jpg

Does anyone know how/if these need timing? hand turning seems all good..cam was locked top dead centre before pulling apart. Not sure if crank needs lining up too or if the marks on the chain do it all lol

The head bolts do not need to be rechecked at any time. Yes it is worth locking the crank at TDC by a suitable pin into the flywheel through the locking aperture in the bell housing and getting the timing spot on.


Nick

How do you get the timing spot on? Lol had a locking pin up the top at top dead centre

Ideally you need to lock both with pins, for the bell housing pin a drill of a suitable size will do to position the crank at TDC on No.1 cylinder. With the pin also in the camshaft the workshop manual describes the process as follows:
12. Check that mark on camshaft sprocket is positioned between the 2 coloured links on timing chain.
13. Position sprocket to camshaft, fit and lightly tighten 3 new bolts then loosen bolts half a turn.
14. Clean fixed guide Allen screw and apply Locktite 242 to screw threads.
15. Fit fixed timing chain guide Allen screw and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft)
16. Clean timing chain tensioner and fit new sealing washer.
17. Fit timing chain tensioner and tighten to 45Nm (33 lbf.ft)
18. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolts to 37Nm (27lbf.ft)
Etc.....................................
Nick

Thanks pippin. I do wish i could find my RAVE cd. Boy it is warm out there. Helicoil kits are also elusive taken ages to locate today lol.