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No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers
some science
SUMMARY OF FINDINGS
Conversion costs of $259 if you do it yourself, or over $400 if you pay a shop to do it.
97%+ removal of all previous coolant is mandatory in order to prevent corrosion.
Inhibitor deposition occurs on aluminum surfaces, which could cause issues in some radiators.
Engines run 115-140oF hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Evans products.
Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 31-48oF, versus straight water with No-Rosion.
Reprogramming ECU fan temp settings is mandatory to prevent the fan from running continuously.
Specific heat capacity of Evans waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.
Engine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers.
Computerized ignition must retard engine timing by 8-10o to prevent trace knock.
Engine horsepower is reduced by 4-5%.
Accelerated recession of non-hardened valve seats in older engines is possible, due to brinelling.
Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate.
Coolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity.
Race tracks prohibit Evans products because they are flammable and slippery when spilled.
With all those advantages - high cost, extra heat, ecu fan reprogramming etc sounds like a winner to me.
Hiclone, Fuel Magnets, Electronic Rust Prevention and Waterless Coolant...
Tick them all off the list....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
All that I have asked for, thankyou very much fella's. No my mind was not already made up on this Eevo, I received exactly what I needed from very well informed members either from personal experience or had heard about it. I will not be making this change when I change the radiator over
I thought about changing over a while back ... Then I thought... nah!. I'm running the factory spec OAT coolant and all is good. My simple and logical reason is the TD5 has been designed to run in nearly all enviroments on this planet and actually does a pretty good job. If your existing cooling is well maintained and performing as it should - why change?
TRS Chip ,D2a I/c, Silcone Hoses, EMS2, 2" Lift, BFG KM2s, QT Diff Guards, 4X4 DE Guard, Shadow Bar. VRS Winch, LR Light Guards, .50 CDL, Provent 200, Slickrock Disconnects, Rovadrive Sump, G4 Roof Rails, D2a SLABS ECU, APT Sliders.DBA Rotors. ABS Ext.
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