I suggest bleeding them again using the electronics - Nanocom etc.
Goes in two stages, ABS unit then wheels.
Good videos on youtube showing it..
I have just replaced the disc rotors and pads with new drilled and slotted rotors and fitted Bendix 4WD pads, and after doing a conventional brake bleed my disco has very spongy brakes and doesn`t get a hard pedal but stops very well. Does my ABS system need to be bled(?) as well? No ABS light on dash as it goes out as it should. Any advise to cure this problem is welcome,![]()
I suggest bleeding them again using the electronics - Nanocom etc.
Goes in two stages, ABS unit then wheels.
Good videos on youtube showing it..
is the cap on tight on the reservoir ? if loose i have found mine were a bit spongy as well
If you dont have a nanocom you can run the abs pump by linking a switch across the abs pump relay.
Whilst running the pump at 10sec pulses and bleeding.
I also pressed and released brake pedal while bleeding calipers pulsing abs pump.
Pedal is harder than ever![]()
Ahhhhhh!.... the D2 spongey pedal, some call it the "chauffuer pedal" and that LR designed it into the Disco![]()
My D2 has done nearly 300K and whilst browsing my newly acquired HAINES D2 Workshop Manual i noticed in the service interval pages that the flexible brake lines must be replaced at 160k (from memory - i might not be exactly right) and recently having had a 2 inch lift done i thought what better excuse do i need to invest in extended 'braided' brake lines. And fyi you could actually feel a "pulse" when holding the floppy old lines when at the same time an assistant pushed on the brake pedal (or are they expanding? either way not good...?). Anyway I purchased and fitted four GOODRICH Braided Brake lines and bled the brakes via pulsing the ABS pump as northiam explained and the pedal IS better than ever. As good as it is though! there are 2 remaining "original" flexible rubber brake lines that I'd like to renew and they can be viewed in the LHS wheel well on the chassis and i will soon get some braided lines made up to replace these and as a result are expecting a still firmer pedal!
onebob
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
I have firmed up spongy brake pedals by doing a power bleed of the modulator. I've had to customers comment how much better the brake pedal felt after.
What is the correct process to follow when doing a power bleed using a diagnostic tool?
Thanks Rover Lord,
Yep, I have already been through that process with my Hawkeye. When you do the Modulator bleed process do you have the bleed valves of all callipers open?
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