Thread: Attention electrical gurus ELECTRICAL ISSUE

Guys , I seem to have an issue with a slightly different slant on my 2001 V8 ( naturally aspirated )

I know I have asked about this question on another thread, but I am hoping that I can explain my issue a little clearer here now on a separate thread and hopefully attract the attention of any D2 Petrol electrical wizards here

NOTE :
She was fine with no issues at all , till I put a new Bosch 130AMP alternator in her.
That is all that has been changed or touched on her ...

Anyway , here is exactly what she is doing :

1/ Starts cold or hot instantly! every time after sitting for more than 30 minutes. No ... M and S lights on at all once running .

2/ Runs perfectly for around 20 minutes or so with no warning lights on !.

3/ Then without warning , she just totally cuts out .
All the usual warning lights come on as if she has just been shut down.

4/ Except when she dies each time , the S and M lights come on and flash as per the usual xyz switch thing causes.

5/ After sitting for 30 minutes she seems to be back to normal and starts fine with no warning lights on , S and M or other wise.

6/ She then runs fine , perfect for around another 20 minutes and repeats the above over and over (driving me nuts sitting on the side of the road)

My thinking , not that I know much about this V8 atm , is that I have had this type of issue in my old faithful diesel and that was caused by the security alarm / engine immobiliser locking the ignition out for the 30 minutes every now and then ...

Question ?
Could this be something to do with the alarm engine immobiliser ?
I understand that the XYZ thing can cause weird behavior , but can that cause the engine to just stop ? and lock out completely for 30 minutes ... every 20 minutes ? Then just go again perfectly after a 30 minute wait ?

It just seems that the engine is killed by the security system and then it re sets like nothing had happened ..


It has been suggested to me that the crank angle sensor may be worth a look ?
Question ?
Could the crank angle sensor allow the engine to start fine every time after sitting at any time for 30 minutes ? then cause the engine to just cut out and lock out for 30 minutes ? regular as clock work !


BTW : Battery is good ... 12.8 off and 14.6 on

any clues from any wizards here would be great !

cheers
Steve ..

Crank angle sensors can fail when they get hot, with the test being to spray cold water or fizzy drink onto the sensor to cool it once it fails to see if the engine then runs.

Hi, one important thing to clarify, after it cuts out in that 30 minutes rest does it crank and not start or it doesnt crank at all?

Hi, if you post your problem then some of us may be able to help you.
Cheers,
Mario

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Hi, one important thing to clarify, after it cuts out in that 30 minutes rest does it crank and not start or it doesnt crank at all?

During the lock out , she cranks like a ripper with the S and M lights flashing .... but will not fire ....
After 30 minutes sitting locked out guys ... hot or cold ... she starts like a new Rover instantly ...

Graeme , that sounds like a ripper tip ...
Tomorrow I might just try that ...

but :
When the crank angle sensor does fail , would 30 minutes allow it to cool enough though ? just asking ...

and hey , thanks for the quick replies guys !!

Thank you Mario ...
Post is up now mate ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...91#post2387591


cheers
Steve

( stuck on the side of the road 3 times today for 30 minutes each time till she re set )
She is my main work vehicle ... I am going nuts !!

X2 for trying crank angle sensor test , wait till it cuts out then cool it down with water and try again

If it cranks the immobiliser is ruled out cos immobiliser = no crank so the crank sensor is a good start to be checked, beside that, in engine bay fusebox swap main relay R9 with R8(heated screen) also check fuse F1 if it's not loose... in the interior fusebox swap R3 with R4(ignition relay) these are good to be ruled out

if no joy you really need to find somebody with tester to read fault codes