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Thread: Getting air out of heater matrix when RAVE process fails

  1. #1
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    Getting air out of heater matrix when RAVE process fails

    Hi all,

    As part of the new engine install this week, full heater matrix flush, new radiator, water pump and thermostat. I am having the waterfall dash sounds familiar to me from years ago as air in the heater matrix. I have taken it off road, highway and done a number of burps when cold the next morning by elevating the overflow bottle, opening the bottle cap, then using the bleed screw in the top rad hose. Each time I am getting air out of the bleed screw before solid coolant, so when cold I would have thought that would, with gravity, push air out of the matrix...however the problem remains. Many years ago I had a full flush and air trapped in there and required a power bleeder to get all the air out.

    Has anyone experienced the same problem and have any answers.

    For now I will keep burping it, but I am concerned about having Dex-Kool in there with air also...

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Try Discowhites post here,,
    could have been written just for you---

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/9...radiators.html
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #3
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    Thanks Pedro. These systems are a poor design in terms of bleeding. I have tried parking it on a steep hill etc to do the bleed. I might have to get a power bleeder and do the bleeds myself. Probably work out cheaper in the long run than paying a shop to do it.

    Against my better judgment (perhaps) I opted for Dex-Kool OAT. Time will tell how the gaskets handle it. It is holding pressure (a lot of) all night, so the cap and system is fully sealed which is what Dex-Kool requires. The pressurised air hopefully wont be causing clag while I get the bubbles out.

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Ordered one of these

    [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00804HWOU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o00_s00"]Amazon.com: FJC 43610 Radiator Coolant Vacuum Refill Kit: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51DQ2KvyNuL.@@AMEPARAM@@51DQ2KvyNuL[/ame]


    Sick of buggering around with bleeding manually!

    Cheers

  5. #5
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    After you filled the system with raised tank fit only partially the bleed screw as to let coolant out near it, start the engine and keep it rev'd above 1500 rpm(as the mechanical bypass valve from the thermostat to be opened) untill no bubbles are coming out near the bleed screw then tighten it back, top up the tank and tighten well the tank's cap, repeat that procedure with warm engine too just protect yourself against hot coolant which will come out near the bleed screw.
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  6. #6
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    Thanks mate. Do you keep the overflow cap open during the process?

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    firstly yes but when the bubbles are starting to vanish the cap goes back, the cap must be on and tightened well cos it should keep 1.4 bar in the system, that's the normal operating pressure... then when you dont see more bubbles it means that the system is sealed and free of air cos being under pressure there's no way for air to get in only for coolant to get out if you see what i mean
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  8. #8
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    Thanks mate. I have just done that. Will wait till its cool, top off the overflow and see how it goes. The vacuum pump will be handy to do my own coolant changes as it should suck it all out of the heater matrix.

    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Bloody thing...still has air in it. I can hear it from inside when revved. I think the air is getting less, but its still there. I have read a trick to reverse the heater hoses and apparently that pushes the air out. Not sure if I want to try that one.

    Cheeers

  10. #10
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    unfortunately that gurgling sound might be a sign of combustion leak...if the system was topped up with tank raised and bled like i said it's very unlikely to have an air lock(not impossible though).... get a bottle of coolant with you and go for a ride with tank cap removed... but not so much to overheat the coolant(around 10Km), then top up the coolant, tighten well the cap, run it 5 minutes more then bleed it again through the partially unscrewed bleed screw.... if no joy after that either IMO you should check for combustion leak

    are you sure it's not some mechanical rattle?
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

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