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Thread: REMOVING DEAD TD 5

  1. #1
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    REMOVING DEAD TD 5

    I was wondering if there are any things I should look out for when removing my dead TD5 to replace it with my newer one?
    The main thing is how to get at the bolts on the bell housing and does the torque converter need centralizing like a clutch plate, I'm thinking not but thought I would ask the question.
    Also I guess I need to support the auto gearbox.
    One other thing, Has any one ever done a tutorial on td5 engine change over?

  2. #2
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    Always always always when removing an engine the torque converter MUST be unbolted from the engine drive plate and make absolutely sure it stays with the transmission until the engine is completely free from the box. The pump and oil seals on the front of the trans will thank you for your care. On refitting a torque converter make absolutely sure that ALL elements of the torque converter are fully engaged with the pump and measure the depth of the mountings from the bellhousing face and compare this measurement to the protrusion of the drive plate past the engine back mounting face. There should be a small amount of relative clearance to allow for flexing under pressure when its all bolted back up again.

  3. #3
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    How the hell do I unbolt the torque converter inside the bell housing?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by worane View Post
    How the hell do I unbolt the torque converter inside the bell housing?
    By using the access port helpfully provided by the vehicle manufacturer for this express purpose. If you don't already have one, I suggest you speedily purchase a workshop manual from Inc.

    https://davesitshop.com/emporium/landycd.html

  5. #5
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    I already have a copy of REVS but can't find anything about pulling a TD5 out.
    Perhaps I need to take another look at it.

  6. #6
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    Remove circular inspection plate on the bottom of bell housing (3 x8mm head bolts , then you will see , if you turn the engine the 3 x13 mm head torque converter bolts , you need to remove the starter motor then you'll be able to remove the bolts , as bee utey says , make sure the torque converter stays where it is .

  7. #7
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    I also have a few pages of words/pix collated from this site which may help. PM me your email address and I'll send it on.
    Cheers Gavin
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  8. #8
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    I have removed a couple TD5s and have always had to resort to a 13mm ratchet spanner through the inspection plate.

    Apparently you're supposed to be able to do it through the hole the starter motor leaves once removed.

  9. #9
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    TD5

    Yes Phibbzy , you can.
    I did not understand what Discorevy was telling me when he said "go through the starter motor hole.
    it was when I looked at my new motor that I realized that the flywheel had three access holes that lines up with corresponding bolt holes on the torque converter.
    So much easier than laying under the car working inside a tiny hole and having to lock the motor "somehow"!
    Sort of reminds me of the joke about the gynecologist setting his cars tappets through the exhaust pipe!
    Regards, Nick.

  10. #10
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    Yep through the starter motor hole makes it easy
    disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
    detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.

    In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message

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