Have you checked the hoses to and from the intercooler?
Also check the wastegate operation and adjustment?
Including checking the small hoses to / from the wastegate modulator.
It may be low on boost, causing lower power and the higher running temp.
Hi all,
I need some help to try and diagnose and issue with my 1999 D2 TD5.
It may have been slowly loosing pulling power over time but not sure if it's just because I got use to it after going from the D1. I'm sure it would pull up hills harder but now find I have to down shift more.
The main problem started on a recent forum trip. On the way home towing the camper trailer it's power suddenly dropped off. It would free rev but had no pulling power. Also the temp was now rising on the engine watch dog. I had to drive very easy in lower gears to keep the temp down. At one stage the watch dog hit 95 at the back of the head so I pulled over. I found The heated hose had a little split near the clamp so shortened it and topped up with water. I think this was a cause from the cooling system getting hot and finding a weak spot, not what was causing the engine to get hot in the first place. I managed to limp it home. Thanks to Loanrangie and Rangieman for your help on the way.
Now I have had some time to look over the issue and here is what I have found and done.
On Initial plug in of the NANCOM I had the following faults.
03-07 Air Flow Circuit (intermit)
09-06 EGR Inlet Throttle Open Load (Current)
09-07 EGR Vacuum Modulator Open Load (Current)
10-04 Gearbox/ABS Drive Open Load (Current)
13-06 EGR Inlet Throttle Short Circuit (Intermit)
15-02 High Speed Crank (Current)
22-01 Road Speed Missing.
I cleared all the errors and only the following return:
09-06 EGR Inlet Throttle Open Load (Current)
13-06 EGR Inlet Throttle Short Circuit (Intermit)
I have also had 20.05 EGR Valve Stuck Closed(Logged) and 24.05 EGR Valve Stuck Closed (Current) a couple of time but clear down.
I have removed the EGR setup and fitted a bypass kit so no longer have the EGR fitted.
I Cleaned the MAF and sender in the Airbox and also the sender on the inlet manifold (MAP I Think).
So this is where I'm at now. The 09-06 and 13-06 are still there and it still seems to lack power. I have not been for a long drive to see if it's still getting hot.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
(Also Note: I'm fairly near to diesels so don't know my way around yet.)
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
Have you checked the hoses to and from the intercooler?
Also check the wastegate operation and adjustment?
Including checking the small hoses to / from the wastegate modulator.
It may be low on boost, causing lower power and the higher running temp.
Cheers
Simon
2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.
Thanks Simon,
I had a call from Alien who said to check the same things. I'll check them out and see how I go.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
Hi Landover,
Once you fixed the water leak did you bleed the system properly? Very important on the TD5.
Unusual to loose power like you have, if you have over fuelling this can cause the temperature to drop not rise.
Is the hand brake free, does the drum turn freely on the back of the engine? Chock the wheels and lift one rear off the floor, spin the drum on the back of the transfer case check it is free. Haven't got one of the other brakes tightening up have you?
Left field .............. tyre pressures. None of the pulleys on the front of the engine tight? Take the serpentine belt off and check them, only takes about 10 minutes.
Radiator blocked? Water pump impeller corroded? thermostat not the best. Viscous fan working as it should. None of the main hoses collapsed internally.
Few things to check while you are doing nothing else.
Cheers Marty.
Some of the symptoms you describe point to a failing head gasket. Check for excessive pressure in the hoses after a hard run and check the header tank for any signs of oil or contamination.
Nick
Due to this statement, I think a good place to start is the intercooler hoses. They de-laminate on the inside and restrict air flow to the engine.
This would give you symptoms of decreasing power, it may also cause the engine to run warmer as airflow and boost would be restricted.
It is also a common failure.
Thanks for your comments and advice, give me some points to look at.
I have removed all the intercooler hoses and inspected. The one on drivers side looks ok but found the large one on the Pass is very soft as is the short one. The short one also has a bubble on the inside near the turbo entrance so looks like it's delaminating. I have ordered some silicon replacement hoses from Dave at British Car Components (Bit of a shout out there for a forum Vendor).
I also checked the waist gate. I removed the vacuum actuator and the waist gate freely moves about 10mm, is this all it's suppose to move. The Vacuum actuator or what ever it's called takes a lot of force pulling on it to get it to move, is this right.
I look at the turbo spindle and spins freely. If I move the centre pin of the spindle there is a bit of side ways movement, normal or not.
I'll get these parts on when they arrive and assess my next move.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
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