There would be more than a few members here, with the kit and 5 helicoils left sitting doing nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
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There would be more than a few members here, with the kit and 5 helicoils left sitting doing nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
So did you go this way [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Also:Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
1. OriginallyPosted by Pedro_The_Swiftyes, I had onedone on the green one,, hardest bit is buying the kit.
Bohica:There would be more than a few members here, with the kit and 5 helicoils leftsitting doing nothing.
Hi Rangieman,
Well, actually, no (perhaps "not yet").
This morning, I went to pick up a brand new TD5 Sump Plug (LR Part No. TRL100040) and tried to locate a mobile thread-repair guy in Perth.
On comparing the new sump plug with the old, it was clear that they are virtually identical, so no breakthrough there.
Overall dimensions very similar, threads much the same.
However, on the new one, each "ridge" of thread comes to a much sharper crest (each ridge on the old plug is comparatively worn down / rounded off).
I was hoping that the thread OD on the new plug would be a little greater, and that that might enable it to bite into the threaded wall of the drain-hole a bit better.
So I cleaned out the drain-hole, and in the process found lots of little pieces of curved wire, some looking almost like a key-ring.
Yep - been helicoiled before!
Dried the box thread as well as I could, and applied Loctite 567 (as suggested by BlackNight, in a previous discussion on this topic) to the bolt-thread and to both sides of the new copper washer.
Carefully presented the new plug (bolt) to the drain-hole and turned it in by hand until I couldn't any more, then gently ran it in the rest of the way with a 17 mm socket.
I have a torque-wrench, but it is only the beam type, and I could not see the scale on either side with the amount of space available under the car (on the ground). So first I put the torque-wrench onto a wheel-nut and pushed until it read 23 N-m, to get some idea of the effort that represents.
I just tightened the bolt gently until it was convincingly firm - much firmer than I was able to get the old one.
Will leave it overnight before putting the fresh oil in, to give the Loctite time to cure before it is in contact with oil.
I will watch closely for leaks, and leave well alone until next time if I don't see any.
Thanks to PhilipA, Pedro, Bohica, Rangieman, and BlackNight for your responses.
Please rest assured that a lack of immediate response from me doesn't mean that I am not taking any notice.
It just takes (me) a bit of time to think things through and do the legwork.
Cheers, Andrew
PS: If anyone in Perth does have a helicoil set and would be willing to show me how to set / install one properly, I would appreciate that.
So I had nothing planned for today, therefore no more excuses to do
1. Service
2. Sump Gasket
3. Replace Oil pump bolt
I figured I would set aside a whole day, and I needed most of it. Pretty happy with myself. Followed the great instructions from here. Hardest part was getting the sump back in, I may remove the front down pipe next time as rave suggests.
BEFORE
Attachment 123462
AFTER
Attachment 123463
Anyway thats the feelgood story. But now after running the truck for 30 mins, there is a leak at the bell housing. See below.
Attachment 123464
I would love some feedback on this if possible please? The options I can think of...
1. I have misaligned the back part of the sump gasket
2. A rear main
Unfortunately I dont know if this leak was there beforehand or not, as there was so much oil on the sump. But as the oil is dropping about once every 5 mins, I get the feeling it might be new therefore the sump gasket. This is of course the most annoying thing.
Would you suggest removing the sump again? I put the gasket sealer in the spots as specified so was hoping to leave it all intact, but its not looking likely :)
Thanks guys.
Steve
There is a LandRover Tech. Bulletin that states that the 4 rear long bolts on the sump should be torqued to 28Nm not the 25 as stipulated in the manual. However it shouldn't be leaking if the gasket was located properly and the sealant was placed in the correct location. Try torquing up those rear bolts anyway it may help if you haven't already done that as I hope it is not the rear seal.
Nick
I forgot to mention to slacken the 4 Bell Housing to sump bolts before torquing the 4 sump to engine bolts.
Awesome thanks for those suggestions Nick, will try it tomorrow! I did my best to make sure the gasket was sitting right but it is so hard. I guess if I do pull the sump off again I would have to clean off the silicone sealant before reinstalling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pippin
Gasket probably not seated properly. I also found a crack in that section of the sump I pulled off my first Td5
Hey Muppet... So I think I will be taking the sump off again on Sunday [bigsad] I will try the cable tie idea, I only saw it after I had done the job the first time! Reckon I would be able to reuse the gasket?Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
Attachment 123466Attachment 123467Attachment 123468Attachment 123469
So my EGR delete kit arrived in the post today and I have now fitted it. The only problem I had was the 2 bolts on the exhaust manifold would not budge even after copious amounts of WD40. So just left them in and only used the 1 blanking plate. I was surprised that the old egr valve was not that dirty compared to all the ones that are on YouTube etc . I am assuming that the 1 blanking plate is fine to use.
Next will be provent then Cat delete.
