i know i'm insane...Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
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i know i'm insane...Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
Hey Slunnie, can I ask why the TW rear shaft has come out ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
It's not comment on the TW shafts, I think they are second to none on the market.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
It was more that I wanted to go back to a rotoflex coupling. As soon as I went to a uni coupling it produced a slight vibration at 105-110kmh (I also have more lift than most, and uni/uni and DC/uni shafts both vibrate in it). I've always just put up with it because I needed the strength in the driveline. These days I don't play silly buggers with it, more touring type stuff which doesn't really destroy rotoflexs. The rotoflex however absorbs that vibration at highway speeds, and considering that I don't live in town and am always on the highway it is just a smoother setup.
Cheers, guessed it was probably that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Struggling atm with the Deefer having a TW DC front shaft, Maxi Low range gears and ATB centre diff and the Disco will be all stock and sans the CDL but too many positives from the change and I'm very time poor atm.
Yes they were heavy awkward buggers to get out But the great thing is that the carpeting and soundproofing remained virtually intact except for the 4 small areas where the top bolts were.Quote:
the middle/backseats i recon weight 100kg in total!
I replaced the 8 torque bolts to prevent the dust coming in and so that I don't loose them and gave the interior a well deserved clean out.
Now there is a ton of room for both of my Engel's, Recovery gear, tools and all the other odd's and sod's that I take away when I go Bush [bigwhistle]
This is the first Discovery I have owned and bought it second hand a couple of years ago and I have since had to replace the crappy road tyres that were on it with a set of Yokohama 245/70/16, had the transfer box rebuilt, rear diff rebuilt, replace the hoses and thermostat and swap out the faulty rear airbags with a set of springs.
I am now waiting for my new ARB winch bar to arrive so that I can get it fitted with the new winch next month.
I am Loving this truck, It goes everywhere my old Toyota's and Nissans did But with a far higher degree of comfort.
My Serck intercooler arrived today. Total cost about $680 including freight.
Will fit it next week sometime after I get over the 4 day exercise of replacing the input shaft bearing in my wife's Honda Jazz gearbox. ( Thank you YouTube Canadian Bloke).First time to rebuild a gearbox at 67. FIGJAM.
Also replaced the clutch which I had replaced with a crap one last year. It took about 4 hours to bloody well get the trans into the spigot bush, but I hope never having to do it again with the use of an Exedy clutch.
Regards Philip A
Will be interested to see how you find it in use, Serck use a pretty fine fin pitch, 16 FPI vs around 12FPI for a lot of others.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
More surface area = better heat transfer but... a greater tendency to block with crap and potentially block the air flow to the rad behind it, even when clean.
Interesting.Quote:
More surface area = better heat transfer but... a greater tendency to block with crap and potentially block the air flow to the rad behind it, even when clean.
I also have a home made Saudi grille which should help airflow.
One thing about the D2 which I have found strange is that the aux fan does not activate when air con compressor on until 28C ambient.
BTW this was with a partial seized VC bearing so the fan may not have been turning at the correct speed.
I found I was approaching 100C towing up the Alpine way (with only 22C ambient) and when I turned off the aircon the temp dropped by 5 or more.
The car runs cooler at over 28c than under with aircon on, so the aircon condenser adds quite a bit of heat.
I may try to rig up the aux fan to turn on with a switch , the trick being to isolate it from the compressor and ECU, maybe with a diode as I did with my old RRC.
My main problem with the stock intercooler and the "hot" map that I have is transients like overtaking on a hill where the EGTs go to 700c quite quickly, although I don't know what that really means seeing that my ex manifold is ceramic coated inside and out. Better to be safe than sorry.
Seeing the car usually runs at 82C-85C on the highway even at 40C ambient I hope that I have quite a bit of headroom, but time will tell. I have a new radiator on the wish list but AFAIK the old one is still fine.
Regards Philip A
Phillip I had mine wired to turn the electric fan on whenever the AC compressor kicks in. Had that for over a year and works well. Cheers
Keep us posted. Am contemplating the same move for a touring set upQuote:
Originally Posted by trout1105