Im thinking they found a fuelling issue or something and tou would have blown it up had it not been found? [emoji14]Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
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Im thinking they found a fuelling issue or something and tou would have blown it up had it not been found? [emoji14]Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
no, nothing that horrendous,[smilebigeye]
Rebuilt the double carden joint bloody little fiddly bloody thing it is
Rather knock truck uni's in amd out
Seeing as I don't have any leaks or other sinister goings on to keep me occupied I thought I'd try and do something about the HF radio interference it causes (7 & 14MHz) After a number of hours messing around I came to two conclusions. 1. The amount of ferrite needed would probably outweigh the car. And 2. The singe best way to get rid of the noise is to turn it off... No HF radio for me whilst on the move during our upcoming trip to the races departing on the 19th.
Quickly crawled underneath this morning to replace the missing grease nipple in one of the DC uni's.
A couple of cotton buds, a 1/4"UNF nipple and a few pumps of CAT moly grease and we're back in business.
It's only been missing since Alice Springs, 10,000km ago.....
(It's been greased twice in that time, just didn't have a spare nipple ;) )
Next is a couple of more ATF changes and a fix for the cooler pipes before they demand a seeing to.
Now to get out of this cold hole for the rest of the weekend. :D
sump off check oil pump gear bolt was tight but no evidence of threadlocker, lots of threadlocker and reinstall sump service engine and slip the front drive shaft in that i rebuilt last night.
much easier with the minister for war and finances helping as her little hands reach many spots larger ones cant.
now all i need to do is service the tranny change the diff/transfer case oils change the coolant and replace the thermostat reseal the fuel cooler and if i feel like it drop the engine pipe off change the xyz switch (but its been behaving its self since i got the new switch) and de cat it and maybe de muffler it as well.
Thought Id spend the day looking into my cooling and boost pressure issues on my TD5.....
let me just say this first..... the last time I bought a car more than 2 years old was 20 years ago, and since then have only once owned a car more than 5 years, so buying a somewhat vintage 13yo disco 2 is an exercise in remembering why I stopped buying second hand cars.
So, I start the day armed with the previous nights research on removing the EGR, modifying the wastegate control valve circuit, testing the viscous fan clutch and testing the radiator.
first job of the day is to check to see what type of EGR system I have, fully expecting it to be a non cooled version, only to find its a cooled version, fortunately I had decided to check before ordering a the wrong bypass kit!
next job of day was off to SCA to get some parts and warm the engine up.... NP
Once home check radiator and its nicely hot, so that's probably OK
Now onto the fan, and despite the engine showing 95C it has absolutely no torque its easy to stop and offers no resistance to being held stationary and reversed, so the fan clutch is clearly fubar
On replacing the radiator cowl I knock the expansion tank overflow hose with the cowl and it just snaps off the radiator! spraying the engine and my hand with scalding hot coolant!
Further investigation of the radiator the plastic fittings have degraded so badly they have the structural integrity of chalk.. F!@#!!!... only good thing I can say is its fortunate this happened in my front yard and not out in the bush somewhere!
So... at end of day I've done nothing for the Turbo, scalded my hand and found I need to replace the fan and radiator.... the latter I think Ill replace with an uprated all alloy rad rather than the standard alloy/plastic design
Tomorrow it looks like I'm ripping out the inter-cooler and radiator, which should at least make removing the EGR easier, hopefully by next weekend I'll have the EGR bypass kit, new fan and new radiator.... hopefully Ill then be able to say goodbye to the overheating issues and maybe be a step closer to resolving the turbo
The problem with owning new cars is they leave you with way too much life to fill!
Brothers TD5 D2 had the cooled EGR too.Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkdavis
One tip: Fully, completely and without a shadow of a doubt ... expect the allen headed bolts at the exhaust manifold end of the pipe to round off!!
we ended up just taking off the pipe at the 90° end at the front of the engine ie. the cooler body, and fitted the blanking plate to that 90° elbow.
So if you want the neater finish of having the blanking plate at the exhaust manifold, then it's going to be a safer bet for 'ya if you already have an bolt extractor tool for allen headed bolts, otherwise just undo it at the elbow.
Also! do you already have an EGT(exhaust temp gauge) fitted. Everyone here will recommend that it's best too. The blanking plate mounted at the exhaust manifold is a good location for an EGT(if you don't already have one fitted).
If you're good at welding yourself, you can get weld on bungs to fit to the blanking plate for a pyrometer probe.
A trick to get you out of trouble for for viscous fan hub. If you can get it off, remove fan too(just to make this easier) and you can drill through two self tapping screws(shorties!!) through the body of the viscous hub. They just need to be equidistant in radius and at 180° to each other(to maintain balance as best as you can).
Done this many times in the past just to get 'out of trouble'.
Obviously doing this will lock the fan hard so it runs all the time .. making lots of fan noise and using more power to do so.
It's a good way to confirm the cactused nature of the viscous unit too, as if you lock it up like that your idle temps should (hopefully) reduce too.
why your going to pulling the radiator out i would get new lower radiator hoses and a thermostat, also why it is also out if you have not checked the oil pump bolt drop the sump off and check it.Quote:
bgkdavis
as the biggest pain in the ass part of doing the sump is getting it past the steel lower radiator hose.
as for doing the lower radiator hoses and thermostat there is not a hell of a lot of room to do them while they are in so will be far easier to do now with the radiator out.
oh and may as well get a new o ring for the cam cover and fit that while their so it wont leak ether lol (or just use a **** load of silicon like i did cause work dident have an oring that big :( )
btw this has to be in the running for quotable comment of the year
Quote:
The problem with owning new cars is they leave you with way too much life to fill!
I have been told a couple large Cable ties acts as another set of hands to hold the fiddly bits from springing apart allowing you free hands during assembly .Quote:
Originally Posted by lyonsy